Journal
Welcome to To Tuscany’s Journal. It's brimming with inspirational ideas to help you make the most of your villa holiday in this beautiful part of Italy. Whatever your interests, you’ll find plenty of suggestions here to turn a relaxing stay into a trip to remember. We’ll take you to the heart of Tuscany with recommendations for the best places to enjoy the local art and culture, explore the natural landscape and its wildlife, and eat and drink some of the world's best food and wine – we’ve even shared a few recipes to help you rustle up Tuscan flavours in the kitchen at your villa. Browse our insider guide to discover where to go shopping, get out and about on foot and on two wheels, play a game of tennis or a round of golf and, of course, make fun memories as a family. Just click on any of the subjects below and begin your trip to Tuscany today.
Journal
Raise a glass to Tuscan wine
Tuscan wines are world-famous and renowned for being among some of the very best. But why are the wines so good here and which grapes are they made from? What types should you try and when? Questions, questions. Join us for a quick canter through the vineyards and all will be explained.
How long have they been making wine in Tuscany?
We’ve got the Etruscans to thank for planting the vines here, sometime in the 8th century BC. These fruits have thrived down the centuries, nurtured by Romans, medieval monks, the local aristocracy, and today’s winemakers.
So which grapes are behind these famous wines?
Tuscany is renowned for its reds and sangiovese is the best-known local grape, but others play a significant role in creating Tuscany’s delicious tipple and there are redoubtable whites, too. Local red varieties include canaiolo, colorino, malvasia nera and mammolo, while whites are made from trebbiano, malvasia, vermentino and vernaccia. Plus cabernet franc, merlot and sauvignon blanc are welcome interlopers from further afield. The balance of the different grapes used to make a wine is responsible for the distinct flavours you’ll taste from vineyard to vineyard.
Tuscany’s grape harvest stretches from August to October.
When can I visit to see the grape harvest in action?
The different varieties, microclimates of the vineyards, and, of course, terroir make it hard to pin a date on when to pick the grapes. This is hill country, so you’ll see many vineyards high on the slopes making the most of the sun. Early-ripening grapes, such as chardonnay, might be harvested in Tuscany in late August, while sangiovese is traditionally gathered in early- to mid-October.
What are the names I should look out for and where will I find local producers?
Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Vin Santo are among Tuscany’s headliners. The heart of Chianti wine production is between Florence and Siena, around Castellina, Gaiole, Radda and Greve, with the very best known as Chianti Classico. Brunello is produced near Montalcino, south of Siena, and Vin Santo is made across the region. Vernaccia di San Gimignano and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano are other big names to seek out. A new generation of super-Tuscans emerged in the 20th century, which has since joined the Tuscan firmament. One of the originals is Bolgheri, from the town of the same name near Livorno, and now a DOC in its own right. Check out smaller DOCs, too, such as Colline Lucchesi near Lucca and Parrina from Grosseto.
Grapes are cut from the vines by hand.
What if I don’t know my DOC from my DOCG?
It’s simple. DOC means Denominazione di Origine Controllata and for DOCG add e Garantita on the end. DOCG is superior. These initials tell you that the wine has been made subject to specific regulations, such as where the grapes were grown, the level of alcohol, and how long the wines must age. If you see the initials IGT, Indicazione Geografica Tipica, that means the wine isn’t subject to these regulations but is still worth quaffing.
Most important, when is best to drink what?
Pop a Vernaccia di San Gimignano after a year, a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and a wine from Bolgheri after two. Chiantis can be enjoyed within five, though some can be laid down for 15 years. You won’t be able to sip Brunello for at least four years and some say you’d do best to wait for a decade or more. Vin Santo, best known as a dessert wine, although there are bone-dry versions available, too, is usually aged for a minimum of three years.
And how best to drink it?
What doesn’t Chianti go with – pizza, pasta, a hearty stew… the choice is yours. A glass of Brunello will wash down a Fiorentina steak. If pasta Bolognese is on the menu, you can’t go wrong with a fruity Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and a light, crisp Vernaccia di San Gimignano is just made for fish. Biscotti and a sweet vin santo are made in heaven – just don’t forget to dip the biscuit into the wine.
A beer festival in Tuscany?
If I offered to take you to a beer festival in Tuscany, you’d probably think I was confused. If I then drove you half an hour south-east of Siena and led you along a couple of kilometres of gravel track to a small farm in the middle of nowhere, you’d probably think I was lost. Yet, for more than a decade, brewers from across Italy (and the world) have converged on this rural spot outside Buonconvento each September to celebrate some of Italy, and the world’s, very best beers.
During the past 20 years, Italy’s microbrewing community has grown faster than yeast in a fermentation vat. As with all things food-and-drink related, Italian brewmasters take their beer very seriously. Yet, they also like to have fun while sharing their passion with as many people as possible, which is what the Festival of Small Breweries - Villaggio della Birra - is all about.
The main action centres on a large barn, where festival-goers are engaged in sampling different beers while soaking up the sun and listening to music performed by local bands. Inside, a largely young crowd of beer enthusiasts choose from the rows of pumps on the bars lining the walls and pile their plates with delicious local food, such as porchetta or wild boar stew. While it would be easy to try a few too many beers here, Villaggio della Birra is aimed at connoisseurs and families are welcome, too.
The beer is uniformly excellent. On offer are some of the finest brews produced in Italy, Belgium, the UK, Norway, Denmark, Spain, Germany and the US. Pale ales such as IPA English and Saison are popular with Italian brewers, as are blond ales and porters. There are more unusual brews, too; one microbrewery, Loverbeer, specialises in sour ales, which have a distinctive flavour and are mostly on the stronger side, around the 8 per cent ABV mark. Pilsners, spiced ales and bocks (German-style strong lager) also make an appearance. For an authentic Tuscan brew, try Birrificio L’Olmaia. Who says it’s all about the wine in Tuscany?
Calling all fashionistas: Tuscany is designer-outlet heaven
Fashion fans, it’s time to put down that glass of Chianti and hit the shops because the countryside around Florence is one of the world’s best designer discount-shopping destinations. This is where many of the top luxury houses (we’re talking names such as Prada, Givenchy & Jimmy Choo) have their production facilities. And at their factory shops, you’ll find pieces on offer from previous seasons with a whopping 30 to 50 per cent off the recommended retail price. But it can still be pricey – don’t see it as a cheap-and-cheerful bargain, more an investment for less. This is the moment to crack open the savings and splash out on that designer bag or wallet you’ve always wanted, a Dolce & Gabbana dress you’ll still be wearing in a decade, or to stockpile some classic Armani suiting.
Make sure the following are on your hit-list:
The Mall
This vast, open-air space contains the biggest selection of fashion labels – including Valentino, Moncler and Saint Laurent. For the best discounts on pieces, go for the Italian labels. Number one on your list should be the huge Gucci outlet. White-hot since creative director Alessandro Michele took over in 2015, the pieces here have now caught up (until fairly recently, they were still clearing the last of previous designer Frida Giannini’s collections). And there’s a queue to match, with a tightly controlled entry system letting very few people in at a time. Expect to wait half an hour to enter, even if it looks quiet. Inside, make a beeline for the accessories – snap up leather belts with the GG buckle and any of Michele’s hit bags, such as the Dionysus (especially in the classic Gucci monogram leather). If you find Ace trainers on offer, don’t hesitate – they’re a modern men’s classic. Elsewhere, the best buys are Made in Italy standards. Head to Marni for artsy prints and chunky resin jewellery, Armani for Giorgio’s signature slim-fit, two-piece suits, Ferragamo for classic ladylike quilted pumps. A Moncler down puffer jacket and a pair of Tod’s Gommino loafers will add some Italian polish to any wardrobe.
The Mall Luxury Outlets
Via Europa 8, 50066 Leccio Reggello (Florence).
Tel: +39 055 8657775
Web: https://firenze.themall.it/
The Space
The Italian fashion giant Prada has its own dedicated outlet a few minutes from The Mall, selling both Prada mainline and Miu Miu. Prada runway pieces featuring each collection’s key prints become instant classics, so keep your eyes peeled for standouts such as a jacket or T-shirt emblazoned with feminist cartoons from SS17. There’s also a huge selection of bags and small leather goods – quilted leather Miu Miu wallets and iPad cases make brilliant presents.
Space PRADA Outlet
Loc Levanella, Via Aretina 403, 52025 Montevarchi (Arezzo).
Tel: +39 055 9196528
Web: https://www.prada.com/gb/en.html
Versace and Alexander McQueen are among the global brands on sale at The Mall
Dolce & Gabbana
This label is known for turning out an extensive commercial collection in every conceivable colour and variation, making rich outlet pickings for fans. Every product category has its own area at this dedicated outlet – there are rails of blazers, racks of skirts, a whole section for jackets, and so on. Dolce ode-to-Italy prints never date, so treat yourself to a 1950s-style sundress or a weekend shirt in a colourful oranges-and-lemons pattern. The design house also excels at va-va-voom evening attire – one of its tuxedos or a corseted black lace dress will see you through years of parties and functions.
Dolce & Gabbana Factory Outlet
Via Santa Maria Maddalena 49, 50064 Incisa Val d’arno (Florence).
Tel: +39 1300 055 833.
Barberino Designer Outlet
Part of the McArthurGlen outlet chain, this mall offers mid-market casualwear labels, including Tommy Hilfiger and Gap – although the discounts on US brands here aren’t particularly good. Instead, check out Italian contemporary labels such as Pinko and accessories brand Coccinelle for cool, dressed-down pieces with a twist.
Barberino Designer Outlet
Via Meucci, 50031 Barberino di Mugello (Florence).
Tel: +39 055 842161
Web: https://www.instagram.com/barberinooutlet/
Valdichiana Outlet Village
Valdichiana has less of a selection of recognisable fashion labels. but is worth a stop for homewares. Pick up kitchen essentials such as an espresso machine from Bialetti, and treat yourself to some pretty napkins from Borgo Tessile. There’s also a Calzedonia store – Verona’s answer to Victoria’s Secret – which offers well-priced lingerie and hosiery, and colourful swimwear.
Valdichiana Outlet Village
Via Enzo Ferrari, 5, 52045 Foiano della Chiana (Arezzo).
Tel: +39 0575 649926
Web: valdichianaoutlet.it/en
Five free things to do in Tuscany
They say the best things in life are free and Tuscany certainly has plenty of enriching experiences to offer that won’t cost you a penny. These outdoor activities and jaw-dropping sights will nourish both body and mind.
Wallow in a hot spring
There are plenty of natural hot springs to enjoy around Tuscany, many of which are free to use. Take a dip in these thermal baths in the wilderness to be at one with nature. Among the best are in the south of the region, including the Cascate di Mulino waterfalls at Saturnia, and the hot springs at Bagni San Filippo.
Swim in the sea – or lie on the beach
Tuscany isn’t all about rolling hills and lush countryside, this region is also blessed with a coast of craggy coves and pine-fringed beaches, especially in the Maremma. Spend a day on the sands and take a dip in the sea at the old seaside town of Castiglione della Pescaia, not far from Grosseto, or the Marina di Alberese, a peaceful beach in a nature reserve a little further south.
Visit a museum
Plenty of state-run museums in Tuscany offer free admission on the first Sunday of every month. Plan your trip accordingly and you can tick off some of Tuscany’s most impressive attractions, such as Florence’s Uffizi Gallery, without having to open your purse.
Get an overview of Florence
It’s not on the usual list of attractions, but one of the best things to do in Florence – and for free – is to climb the steps to the Piazzale Michelangelo for sublime views across the city.
Discover Roman Siena
Go in search of Roman treasure in Siena. The city dates from the first century AD and has plenty of Roman ruins around the city to warrant whiling away a few pleasurable hours delving into the past. Keep an eye open for the dappled red bricks that were made using small crimson stones mixed with cement in Roman times.
Want to know how to take a great shot of a view? Ask a photographer
We all love a beautiful view and if you capture one on camera you can admire it forever. But how do you take a great photo of a landscape? Photojournalist Alfredo Falvo, owner of Tuscany Photography Day, helps people get the best out of their cameras. Here he shares six stunning images of landscapes that he shot in the Val d’Orcia and reveals how and why he created these scenes.
Belvedere
The subject: Belvedere, an agriturismo set on a hill near San Quirico d’Orcia.
The location: At the edge of San Quirico, on the road to Pienza, just past Ristorante La Taverna Del Barbarossa, there’s a field of olive trees on the right, from where the view can be seen looking east.
The shot: I took this photo just after dawn to capture the morning mist. The rising mist cast the building in silhouette and revealed all the layers in the landscape behind.
Sorano
The subjectSorano, a town between Mount Amiata and the coast.
The location: At the sign that marks the edge of Sorano, on the road to Sovana, this scene unfolds.
The shot: This image was taken during the “blue hour”, just after sunset, when the sun has set but the sky is still blue. Consequently, the natural and artificial lights are well-balanced, even and soft, and the photo picks out a lot of detail.
Cappella di Vitaleta
The subject: Cappella di Vitaleta, a rural chapel between San Quirico and Pienza.
The location: About 5km outside San Quirico on the SP146, turn right at the sign to Cappella di Vitaleta. Continue for a couple of kilometres, then take the first right and continue for 500 metres to find the chapel on the right.
The shot: It’s best to photograph this chapel from the front before the sunset. But my shot shows the rear of the chapel in silhouette. I was lucky weather-wise; the sun had dipped below the horizon but the rays of light gave the clouds these amazing colours.
Gladiator scene
The subject: The famous landscape seen in the film Gladiator, where Russell Crowe dreams of returning home as he dies.
The location: Standing with your back to the entrance of Le Pieve di Corsignano, just off the SP18 near Pienza, turn left onto a gravel track and walk for about 200 metres, just before the road levels out, then turn right onto a steep path into a field to see this view towards a little house on the hill with Mount Amiata in the background.
The shot: This image is all about the light, which gives the hills their shape. A golden light was coming in from the right, reminiscent of the scene in the film, and the trees add symmetry to the photo.
Monte Oliveto
The subject: Monte Oliveto, an abbey near Asciano.
The location: Just before the Santuario Madonna delle Grazie chapel, as you enter Chiusure from the SP451 along the Strada Provinciale del Pecorile, look to the west.
The shot: I took this shot about an hour after sunrise to capture the diffuse light on the rock formations, using their shape to draw the eye towards the abbey. I like the contrast between the sharp angular lines of the rocks and the soft, billowing clouds.
Poggio Covilli
The subject: Poggio Covilli, an agriturismo near Bagno Vignoni.
The location: Take the SR2 from Bagno Vignoni towards Gallina. After about 2km you will see the cypress trees in the image on the left. This photo was taken at a bend in the road about 150m before the driveway to the agriturismo.
The shot: I wouldn’t usually recommend shooting before the “blue hour”, but that’s when this photo was taken. I was struck by the stormy sky, so I waited (a long time) for the light to fall on the top of the hill and make the house brighter than the rest of the landscape.
Alfredo’s Top 3 Tips: taking landscape photos
1. Never take a photo with the sun behind you – even though that’s what we’re taught to do. Make sure the sun is to one side, to give light and shade to the subject and the rest of the elements of the image. This will add dimension to your picture.
2. The best time to take photos is in the morning before the sun rises but the sky is light, about a half-hour before to an hour after sunrise. Alternatively, take photos from 90 minutes before to 40 minutes after sunset. The “blue hour” is just after sunset. If you take photos outside these times, they’ll make good memories but not great photos.
3. Always keep the image as simple as possible. Draw the eye straight to the subject and let the light help direct the eye towards the subject, too. Less is more.Tuscany Photography Day (www.tuscanyphotographyday.com) offers daily workshops, led by Alfredo
Meet Us In Tuscany
Tuscan tale: Casale La Canonica, the villa starring in ‘Meet Us In Tuscany’
When Janet Toll Davidson and her husband Richard embarked on a trip to Tuscany, little did she realise this fascinating trip would result in a book. Meet Us In Tuscany is the memoir of a happy holiday with extended family that’s sure to inspire your own journey to the heart of Italy. The following excerpt sees the family settle in at Casale la Canonica and begin to explore the local area…
“Our three weeks unfolded in chapters. Guests came, guests left. They stayed from four nights to seven nights. The only constants were Richard and me. For us, every week was a new beginning. Early in our planning, I had created an Excel spreadsheet with arrival and departure dates to make sure that we were not overbooked. We needed to assure ourselves that there would always be an available bed. There was.
Mimi and Corona with the gelateria van
The villa was not air-conditioned so we hoped it would be cool enough on hot Tuscan summer days. The pool was not heated so we hoped that the weather would be hot enough to keep it warm. I think we had the perfect combination. The pool was indeed warm enough, even for me, and the house temperature was delightful thanks to the thick stone wall of a centuries-old edifice.
For all, life at the villa was at the top of their list of favourite memories. Just hanging out in the living room, the kitchen or by the pool, chatting and laughing, was such fun. However, because the villa was large and spread out, it was easy to sneak away for a nap, a read, a shower or just some quiet time. Our schedule was unstructured. We arose at different times anywhere from about 5am to 10am so the morning was very slow and casual. Zachary took a fierce bike ride each morning, Debbie did T’ai Chi by the pool, Tierna and AJ worked out, many of us took a hike and others just lolled about smelling the tantalising aroma of Italian coffee…
The villa’s kitchen is just the place to try out some Tuscan recipes
...[One] day, while I was walking to town [Castellina] alone, I encountered a woman who had emerged from the bushes on the downward slope next to the road. She seemed to have some crops in her hands. In my meagre Italian and with lots of hand gestures, I asked what was down the slope. Apparently, she had a small garden just off the road. She showed me what she had picked that day, all fresh and beautiful. We smiled at each other and waved as she left to walk home. Each time I took that trip, I looked for her. It made me want to have my own little herb and vegetable garden… It was such fun to engage these lovely Italian villagers even if we did not speak the same language…
…When Karen and Debbie arrived just six days after our arrival at the villa… we went into Castellina… Karen was amazed that I knew so many people after such a short time. In general, Italians are among the friendliest people on this earth but in small towns they knock themselves out to make your time there such fun… I met Silvia, the owner of Il Rifugio dei Folletti [shop]… on my first day in town. She spoke little English and I less Italian but we became fast friends. I visited her every time I was in town, whether I needed items from her shop or not. That first day, I had asked her about a cheese she had out for tasting. It was unusual as it incorporated pistachios. I also asked her about some pastries on the counter. Once I had completed my purchases and paid my bill, Silvia cut a chunk of the special cheese, wrapped it up and stuck it in one of my shopping bags. Then she grabbed four of the pastries, wrapped them up and placed them in another of my bags. What a sweetheart. From that day on she always gave me a little something special…”
Family lunch in Castellina in Chianti
This excerpt from Meet Us In Tuscany: A Memoir of Life at the Villa by Janet Toll Davidson has been published by kind permission of the author and Publish Authority. Copies of the book can be ordered at www.publishauthority.com and other online outlets.
Three must-visit Tuscan food festivals
Tuscany is food heaven. Crostini, fennel salami, bistecca alla Fiorentina, fish stew and chestnut cake – these are just some of the tempting local delights that await you. Then there are the wines: luscious Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino and the sweet Vin Santo, which is best served with biscotti. Go straight to the source of Tuscany’s edible treasures by visiting a festival, known locally as a sagre
Here are three of the best:
1. Bravio delle Botte Montepulciano
If you’re near the town of Montepulciano on the last Sunday of August, be sure to catch the Bravio delle Botti Eight teams of two runners (spingitori), each representing a different district, compete in this annual race by rolling an 80kg wine barrel through the town centre – a gruelling uphill journey for most of the 1.8km route. As the streets narrow, the barrels become more cumbersome, resulting in frequent collisions. First to reach the Piazza Grande wins the painted cloth bearing the image of the town’s patron saint. Everyone is rewarded with a feast of local food.
San Miniato Truffle Fair
The fragrant local white truffle is celebrated on the last three weekends of November in the medieval market town of San Miniato, between Pisa and Florence. The prized funghi is available to sample and buy in different forms, including oils and paste, and there’s extra virgin olive oil, honey, pecorino, chocolate, focaccia, pickles, cakes and other products on sale, too. Meanwhile, the town’s restaurants serve up special dishes, such as a simple pasta cooked with truffle oil and fresh mushrooms.
Fest’ all’Olio, Vitolini
The latest olive oil and wine goes under the spotlight at the Fest’ all’Olio in Vitolini in November. The celebrations begin with a special themed dinner drawing on this produce from the local olive groves and vineyards. On the following day, stalls set out around the town, offering tastings, restaurants put on special menus and there are tours of the olive groves and vineyards, too.
Five Chianti Classics in Tuscany’s world-famous wine region
We’ve picked some of our favourite sights and activities in the world-famous wine region that we call home. Our trail is a real mix, to suit all tastes. Whether you try just one of our recommendations or tick off all five, you’ll be sure to enjoy memory-making experiences among these ancient vines.
1. Art and music at the Chianti Sculpture Park
A woodland gallery of sculptures and installations created by artists from around the world – we’re not sure which we like best at the Chianti Sculpture Park, the art or the natural setting. The exhibits are weird, wonderful and thought-provoking – among our favourites is The Labyrinth, a maze made from aquamarine glass bricks by UK artist Jeff Saward. This is also the location of La Fornace Art Gallery, a collection of more than 200 contemporary works by Asian, African, South American and European artists, housed in a former pottery. And if you’re around on a Tuesday in July or August, catch one of the open-air concerts in the marble and granite amphitheatre.
2. Walk, run, ride or cycle on the Dievole Natural Path
Byways once tramped by share-croppers, who toiled in the Chianti vineyards, have been given a new lease of life as a ‘Natural Path’. Step back in time along more than 27km of these ancient routes on the Dievole Estate, restored to provide a hilly playground among the vines and olive groves for walkers, runners, cyclists and horse-riders. The paths are clearly marked, with beautiful landmarks highlighted, such as an 18th-century stone aqueduct. Along the way, there are some glorious views, which will reward your efforts and get you reaching for your camera.
3. Star-gazing at Osservatorio Chianti
Reach for the stars at Chianti’s observatory. On Friday evenings, the research centre hosts special star-gazing sessions, with English-speaking astronomers on hand to help you explore the constellations through their telescopes. Children are welcome, too.
4. Fishing at Lake Quornia
Fall hook, line and sinker for a spot of fishing at Lake Quornia. This peaceful little lake can be found amid the vineyards between Castellina and Monteriggioni. Just follow the signs to Ristorante Vallechiara, where the owners hire all the equipment you’ll need to reel in the carp, sturgeon or trout that inhabit these waters. (At weekends, a man supplies kit on the lakeside.)
5. Wine and art at Castello di Ama
Serious wine buffs shouldn’t miss a trip to one of Chianti’s premier wine-producing estates, Castello di Ama. You could spend a whole afternoon here visiting the vineyards and cellars and sipping wines – the Chianti Classico Vigneto La Casuccia and Vigneto Bellavista are world-renowned. But don’t miss the extraordinary contemporary art collection that’s also on display, with works by such luminaries as Louise Bourgeois and Anish Kapoor.
What’s on in Tuscany in Spring?
Spring in Tuscany is a time of celebration, which means it’s festival time in the towns and villages as locals welcome the season of renewal. These are gentle events focusing on food, drink and, of course, family, as well as the serious business of paying homage to patron saints. Next, Easter arrives, a chance to enjoy the full spectacle of one of the most important religious festivals of the year.
La Pasquetta – or ‘little Easter’ – held on our Easter Monday, sees families get back in touch with nature as they head out to the countryside or gather in cities’ green spaces to picnic on a feast of traditional seasonal foods, such as pecorino cheese and fava beans, rustic bread, olives and red wine.
Easter is the time to witness the full spectacle of this important religious festival, which is marked by events from sombre plays depicting the Passion of Christ to colourful street parades and historical re-enactments. The carnivalesque celebration lasts from Holy Thursday to Easter Monday, and generally finishes with gorging on chocolate eggs.
In Florence, Scoppio del Carro, or ‘the explosion of the cart’ has been an unusual highlight of Easter Sunday for 350 years. A parade trundles a cart through the streets to the cathedral square where it is literally blown up in a noisy pyrotechnic display. Why? They say the ceremony commemorates the return of a crusading knight, while the ‘blessed fire’ carries the promise of a good harvest.
Meanwhile, Liberation Day, a public holiday on 25 April, marks the end of the Nazi occupation of Italy in 1945. Honouring those who served in the Resistance, events range from marching bands and concerts to food festivals and political rallies. But there’s a time and place for quiet contemplation, too, such as at the shrine to the inhabitants of the remote Tuscan hillside hamlet of Sant’Anna di Stazzema, where the entire population was massacred in one day in 1944. Declared a National Park of Peace, the hamlet is the site of a memorial monument, and its little church bears a plaque mentioning the priest who pleaded for their lives in vain.
Nova Eroica a vintage cycling event
Amateur cyclists hit Tuscany’s strade bianche, or white gravel roads, in April as the Nova Eroica gets young and old in the mood for the nation’s eagerly awaited professional race, Giro d’Italia, in May. This spring version of the more famous autumn vintage cycle festival, Eroica, is a ‘gravel gran fondo’ that combines time trials and a variety of routes, from a leisure ride for children and families to a 130km circuit that really tests competitors' endurance. Even non-cyclists can enjoy race day, watching the cyclists speed along and joining in the (five-day) festival celebrating art, nature, food and wine in the village of Buonconvento.
Serious cyclists should find a space at the roadside for Stage 2 of the Giro d’Italia when it makes its way south from Bologna. After crossing the Apennines to enter Tuscany, the cyclists will make the descent into Prato to a finish line in the town of Fucecchio. The following day, the town of Vinci is the starting point of Stage 3, marking the quincentenary of the death of its famous son, Leonardo da Vinci. From here, the peloton will head off through the Tuscan landscape, passing by San Miniato, through Grosseto and on to the southernmost tip of the region, Orbetello, for the first sprint finish
Three important Tuscan gardens will be opening to the public on La Pasquetta as part in the nationwide event Caccia al Tesoro Botanico Grandi Giardini Italiani, with fun and games such as Easter egg hunts for children to enjoy, as well as the chance to admire the blooming herbaceous borders. There are guided tours of historic buildings and gardens, too, at Giardino Bardini in Florence, Giardino Storico Garzoni in Collodi, and Parco della Villa Reale di Marlia in Lucca.
Spring is also the moment to catch a hilarious alternative to the great Palios di Siena, which takes place in the medieval town of Torrita de Siena, south of Florence. Instead of a horse race featuring gleaming steeds, Palio dei Somari sees neighbourhood jockeys in historic outfits competing astride humble, if disobedient, donkeys. The stakes are high and this race is taken very seriously, but it’s filled with funny moments as the stubborn animals ignore their riders, stop and even go backwards. A market, parades and traditional flag-throwing contests keep the weekend’s proceedings lively, too.
All aboard the Nature Train for day trips departing from Siena. Photo: Visit Tuscany
The popular steam-engine-driven Nature Train comes back into service after winter in the sidings, departing Siena for scenic day trips around the region, carrying passengers to local festivals and special events. The first trip of the spring season heads out to San Giovanni d’Asso for the Mazzuolo White Truffle Market, while other journeys include a ride out to the San Quirico d’Orcia Wine Festival.
The San Quirico d’Orcia wine festival offers a taste of Tuscany’s vineyards.
Whether or not you go there by train, the four-day San Quirico d’Orcia Wine Festival is a date for your diary. The long weekend is packed with organised tours of local vineyards on foot, on two wheels, and by bus, talks and tastings, and lots of cultural events, including opera performances and a short film festival.
Spring ends with the start of the internationally renowned Lucca Summer Festival
What’s on in Tuscany this Autumn?
Late summer and autumn is the time to indulge in Tuscany’s fantastic home-grown food and drink, with plenty of festivals, or sagre, to experience.
If it’s autumn, it’s time to celebrate the region’s wine.
One of the biggest is Chianti Classico Expo, a major celebration of the region’s most famous wines in Greve. Taste your way around 60 producers from the nine towns of the Chianti Classico region, which will be presenting their wines alongside olive oil and other delicious local produce. Check out, too, the national Calici di Stelle wine event when glasses are raised as night falls, with tasting events beneath the stars in towns including Siena, Gaiole, Castiglione D’Orcia and Montepulciano.
For beer-lovers, there’s the Villaggio della Birrabeer festival held south-east of Siena in Buonconvento. This international festival of artisanal breweries started in 2006 as a celebration of friendship between Italian and Belgian brewers. It now welcomes brewers from across the world for tastings, food, live music and arts.
Montepulciano’s Bravio delle Botti was originally a horse race but in 1974 wine barrels were substituted for the steeds. Eight contrade, or districts, challenge each other to win a precious piece of painted cloth by rolling wine barrels up hill. They make a day of it: lunch follows, with a medieval procession in the afternoon.
One of the region’s most important events takes place in autumn, L’Eroica a cycling event that has launched an international movement over the past 20 years. Thousands of cyclists set off on vintage bikes from Gaiole along the white gravel roads of the Tuscan countryside. Routes range from 46km to 209km and a 3,700m altitude difference with plenty of stop-offs to sample local food and, of course, wine.
Truffles for sale in San Miniato's truffle festival
So, what about those delicious sagres? Carmignano celebrates figs at its Benvenuto Fico Secco festival and Bacchereto, a hamlet of Carmignano, puts chestnuts in the spotlight. For truffles, head to the hamlets of San Miniato in the province of Pisa. Corazzano holds its White Truffle Fair on, with more truffles in Ponte a Egola on, while there are mushrooms as well as truffles on show at La Serra and Balconevisi.
The Palio in Siena is a historic horse race tradition.
And, if you missed Siena’s famous horse race, Il Palio, in July, there’s a second chance to catch it in August. And don’t forget Domenica al Museo, when all the state-run museums open free of charge on the first Sunday of the month, starts in October and runs until March.
The best places to propose in Tuscany, Italy
What could be more romantic than to propose while on holiday in Tuscany? There are so many beautiful places in which to ask your beloved for their hand in marriage and we know some of the most magical.
On the Ponte Vecchio
If you are happy to brave the crowds in Florence, the Ponte Vecchio at sunset or the Piazzale Michelangelo, with its sweeping views of the city, are two memorable places in which to propose. For a little more privacy, a quiet walkway in the Boboli Gardens could provide a pretty scene.
At the top of the Torre del Mangia
For a grandiose statement, there’s nowhere better than Siena’s Piazza del Campo, one of Europe’s most impressive medieval squares. Or climb to the top of the bell tower, the Torre del Mangia, to declare your undying love against the backdrop of Siena’s rooftops and the gentle countryside beyond.
At Brolio Castle
Take a walk around the grounds and gardens of this medieval castle, a splendid confection of battlements and turrets presiding over the vineyards of Chianti Classico. We suspect you’ll know when you’ve found the right spot to get down on one knee.
On route 222
Prefer a more thrilling setting? Hire a sports car or Vespa and ride the Chianti 222 highway. Once you find a great view – and there are plenty along this road – well, the rest is up to you.
In a vineyard or beneath an olive tree
Sip some fine wines (before or after) and take a stroll through the vines to find the perfect place to ask the question. Alternatively, pack a special picnic and set it out below an old olive tree for a lovely low-key proposal.
It’s time to get together - luxury villas for large groups
After a turbulent few years, we know that lots of you are already making big plans to get together with family and friends next year. But we know that lots of you are already making big plans to get together with family and friends next year. So to help you find the perfect villa we’ve picked six of our best properties for large groups, sleeping 12 or more people. They’ve got flexible accommodation, secluded locations and spacious interiors and grounds. And, don’t forget, all our big villas in Tuscany have private pools, too.
The delightful pool area, surrounded by shrubs and trees, is one of the many tranquil spots in the grounds of Villa Agresto
Villa Agresto, near Gaiole in Chianti
Ideally located for exploring the Chianti region,Villa Agresto is a six-bedroom property hidden away in the Siena hills. It offers sweeping views of the vineyards and forest below and plenty of tranquil spots – including a delightful pool area – from which to admire them. Inside, the décor blends traditional features with a contemporary colour palette. The kitchen and its mod cons, as well as large indoor and outdoor dining areas, make this a good choice for groups who like to host large, convivial meals.
Palazzone has two stylish lounges, so there is plenty of space for everyone to relax
Palazzone, near Torrita di SienaPalazzone, an imposing stone villa surrounded by lush lawn, is an elegant retreat for friends or family. Six bedrooms offer flexible accommodation – two of them housed in a separate, cottage for extra privacy. There are two lounges in the main house – including one with a striking glass-covered atrium – so everyone can find a peaceful spot. The outdoor lounge or the Jacuzzi by the pool are ideal for gazing towards Montepulciano and the mountains. Plus, historic Montefollonico and Siena are a short trip away.
The chic country retreat of Borgo San Polino is pure Tuscan with designer elegance.
Borgo San Polino, Gaiole in Chianti
Nestled in the heart of the Chianti region – which, for some, is the only place to stay in Tuscany – Borgo San Polinooffers a tranquil setting, surrounded by manicured olive groves, vineyards and wild oak woodland. And yet, the popular day trip spots of Siena, San Gimignano and Florence are just a short distance away. The property itself, spread over three grouped cottages, lends itself perfectly to an extended family getaway, with both large, elegant communal areas for coming together – including an incredibly positioned swimming pool - and cosy nooks for enjoying some well-deserved ‘me’ time.
Panoramic vistas, wide open space and idyllic comfort are waiting for you at Le Cannelle
Le Cannelle, Castellina MarittimaLe Cannelleis an incredibly special and unique find when it comes to Tuscany rental properties. Not only is this villa a short distance from the coast so you can enjoy warm sandy beaches at your leisure but it is also perfectly located for exploring Tuscany's Archipelago and Bolgheri's five-star vineyards. That’s if you can tear yourself away. Reached by a winding private road, flanked by centuries old oak forest, the property comprises of three cottages, each with their own private entrance, kitchen and living areas, and each the perfect balance of traditional splendour and modern amenities.
We are here to help. Reach out to our Villa Specialists for personalised recommendations.
Puccini’s operas: a bluffer’s guide
Giacomo Puccini once said he would like to hear one of his operas at Torre del Lago, the lakeside where he wrote so many of them, next to his home. These days it is the setting of an open-air festival www.puccinifestival.it where virtually all his operas are performed over seven weekends in July and August. You’ll hear Puccini everywhere in Tuscany – in shops, restaurants, museums – but only at Torre del Lago are his operas belted out to such theatrical great effect.
If you are planning to see an opera during your next visit to Tuscany but not sure where to start or whether you will be able to follow the storyline, be sure to read our “bluffer’s guide” before you arrive.
Below are just a few of his most famous masterpieces.
La Bohème
Four overgrown students live on next-to-nothing in 19th-century Paris. Rodolfo, the poet falls in love with Mimi, but he can’t bear the fact she’s dying of TB and they separate. Their Act III parting duet ‘Addio’ is a showstopper. Marcello , the painter has an on-off affair with Musetta, but they break up, too, because he is insanely jealous. In Mimi’s final hours, Musetta brings her to Rodolfo so she can die in his arms.
Tosca
An idealistic painter gets caught up in counter-revolution in Napoleon’s Rome. The problem is his silly girlfriend Tosca, who is provoked to jealousy by Scarpia, the villainous chief of police. Scarpia deceives Tosca into thinking he’ll release the boyfriend if she’ll sleep with him. Tosca stabs him instead but the boyfriend still dies. Torture and double-crossing abound and in Act II there’s a lovely aria ‘Vissi d’arte’ when Tosca asks while life can’t be nicer.
Madama Butterfly
An American naval lieutenant stationed in Nagasaki buys the marital services of a local woman. Unfortunately, that woman, Butterfly, thinks it’s a real marriage. After the sailor, Pinkerton, leaves she raises their son as an American and refuses all other suitors. In Act II she dreams of when he’ll return (listen out for the famous aria ‘Un bel dì, vedremo’), but when he does it’s with his new American wife to acquire the baby. Butterfly makes sure they arrive to pick up the boy just as she kills herself.
Il Trittico
After a domestic scandal that almost sent his wife to prison, Puccini lost his way for a few years. One of his experiments at this time was an evening of three one-act operas. The first was a grim tale of infidelity and murder, the second a weepie about a dying nun, and the third Puccini’s only comedy, Gianni Schicchi. This mediaeval story of a family squabbling over who should inherit Schicchi’s wealth contains the rapturous aria ‘O mio Babbino Caro’.
Turandot
This man-hating Chinese princess would be a great catch but to marry her you must answer three riddles. Get them wrong and she executes you. Undercover, Prince Calaf risks everything on the Turandot challenge and gets three out of three but, capriciously, offers that if she can guess his name she can execute him. Calaf’s great aria ‘Nessun Dorma’ is sung while Turandot is off-stage torturing people who might provide the name.
Tuscany, second (third or fourth) time around
First-timers to Tuscany often focus on the frescoes, not the fields of sunflowers. Take Florence. The city of Botticelli and Brunelleschi, home to half of Italy’s Unesco art treasures, can seem daunting. August can mean gridlock by the goldsmiths on the Ponte Vecchio, and seething crowds around Michelangelo’s massive, heavy-veined David. As well as Florence, first-timers flock to Siena and the Leaning Tower of Pisa, stopping only for San Gimignano (“medieval Manhattan”) and wine-tasting in the Chiantishire vineyards. After an indigestible feast of art history and riservas, Tuscany gets ticked off for ever.
Or you could be stirred to slip away and take it slowly? Tuscany for second- (third- or fourth-) timers means not missing out on sleepy hill towns that might steal your heart. There’s time for hearing Puccini in piazzas, cycling the ramparts, and siestas by sunflower fields. Going off-piste works for sophisticates or seven-year-olds, with Vin Santo or ice cream an antidote to artistic overload. And you can expect fewer teenage tantrums in empty minor museums studded with masterpieces.
If you like Florence, you’ll love unsung Pistoia, a miniature, less touristy version, complete with twin town hall – a tiny Palazzo Vecchio. With its shadowy streets and medieval mood, Pistoia feels bubble-wrapped against modernity. The main square offers a dizzying sense of medieval might. Admire the jauntily striped Romanesque cathedral, the sky-high bell tower and the wedding-cake baptistery. Climb the crenellated bell tower for a bird’s-eye view of the square, one of the loveliest in Tuscany. Mostly pedestrianised, Pistoia also revels in its contemporary side, from bold museums to street art, suggesting a vibrant cultural scene. Even so, as dusk falls, the streets see Franciscan friars striding along in their brown habits and rope belts, just as they did in the Middle Ages.
Discover Lucca on two wheels.
If overwhelmed by Pisa, and the posers around the Leaning Tower, try perfectly preserved Lucca, which was built on a human scale. Ringed by Renaissance walls, crowd-pleasing Lucca invites strolling and shopping, church-goggling and café crawls. The massive ramparts seem made for jogging, flirting, gossiping and cycling. What’s more, Lucca’s skyline is superior to Pisa’s, with ravishing vistas from the top of the Romanesque-Gothic Torre Guinigi tower-house. This city of bizarre churches climaxes in the crazily patterned San Michele in Foro, a Romanesque concoction on the Roman Forum site. Wander Via Fillungo, one of Tuscany’s prettiest shopping streets, and retreat to genteel Pasticceria Taddeucci for pastries and coffee. To jaded urbanities, Lucca represents life as it should be led.
Alabaster Stone Shop in Volterra.
For elemental Etruscan Tuscany, try Volterra instead of jam-packed San Gimignano. Perched on a majestic ridge overlooking soft hills and deep gullies, Volterra commands its remote setting, entered via the best-preserved Etruscan gateway in Italy. The road climbs to Piazza dei Priori, the most theatrical square, dominated by the town hall, a model for Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio. A ramble through this multi-layered medieval town reveals Roman and Etruscan walls, along with ancient epigraphs encrusted in Renaissance mansions. The compelling Etruscan Museum runs the gamut of Etruscan demonology and Greek mythology, featuring sea monsters, Greek gods and beaked griffins. Enigmatic sculptures blur the line between mortality and immortality. Before giving up the ghost, call into Volterra’s alabaster workshops to learn about alabaster-carving, yet another Etruscan legacy.
In the streets of Montepulciano.
Further south, if Siena strikes you as claustrophobic, choose Montepulciano, a dignified Renaissance outpost. Standing sentinel is San Biagio, a honey-toned Renaissance temple topped by a perfect dome, with a purity of line echoing the Pantheon in Rome. The town hall is a miniature version of the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence, with a tower surveying Siena province, from Val d’Orcia to Monte Amiata and Siena itself. Overlooking the set-piece square, the winery Contucci Cantine offers a taste of noble life, a loftiness at one with the town itself. The Contucci dynasty has been making Vino Nobile di Montepulciano in their ancestral mansion since Renaissance times. This being Tuscany, the family often leads the guided tasting and cellar tour. This smooth red wine with a hint of violets was ennobled in 1549 when Pope Paul III’s sommelier proclaimed it “a most perfect wine, a wine for lords”. Call into equally smooth Caffè Poliziano and take in the pastoral views, preferably with a glass of Vino Nobile in hand.
Reenactment of the famous Battle of Montalcino, which took place in 1553 during the Siege of Montalcino.
If Pienza feels too popular, visit spirited Montalcino, Montepulciano’s hilltop neighbour. From afar, Montalcino resembles a medieval Sienese painting, especially at sunset. While Pienza was perfectly planned, Montalcino developed around its fortress, so has a sense of freedom and spiritedness that Pienza lacks. With few must-see sights, Montalcino is more about the mellow mood and drinking in the views from the home of prized Brunello di Montalcino wine. The citadel sums up Montalcino, from the medieval battlements and wide vistas to its beguiling wine-tasting centre.
It’s a travesty to equate Tuscany with Chiantishire, a parody of an English country-house party transposed to Italy. Still, if you’re tired of the slightly soporific Chianti and feeling restless for transcendent scenery, try the Val d’Orcia. Montalcino opens up this Unesco-listed patchwork of craggy castles, hilltop hamlets, remote abbeys and moody natural spas. From the ribbons of vineyards to the serried exclamation marks of cypresses, the area is less populated, less manicured and less commercialised than Chianti. It’s here that Tuscans best master the art of country living, of deep harmony with the land. Expect to be shaken and stirred, whether by the giant sunflowers or by a balloon ride over the valley.
Cortona, with its stunning views.
Finally, if you are underwhelmed by unprepossessing Arezzo, visit Cortona, the perfect hill-top town. Enticing Cortona is a place for pottering in search of the Etruscans, while being beset by Puccini-playing buskers and tempting cafes. In the Etruscan Museum, gaze at a dolphin- and gorgon-encrusted Etruscan chandelier, proof that this was the most important Etruscan city in northern Tuscany. Hike up to the Medici fortress for views of terraced olive groves and vineyards stretching towards Lake Trasimeno. This dreamy spot was once an Etruscan acropolis but you might prefer to dream in the citadel’s wine bar, or to feast on Val di Chiana T-bone steak, washed down with Chianti Classico, of course. Forget Florentine frescoes: Tuscany for second-timers means succumbing to chance encounters.
Six great days out in Tuscany for children
It’s easy to keep the whole family happy on a holiday to Tuscany; just balance a bit of ‘me’ time with some ‘them’ time.With its family-first culture, Tuscany is a wonderful place for children. From water parks to museums, these attractions are sure to be a big hit not only with the little kids in your group but the big kids too!
Leonardo Da Vinci Museum
Children will love the interactive exhibitions in theLeonardo Da Vinci Museum in Florence. More than 40 machines have been built to scale using the plans of the great Italian Renaissance polymath, including his famous flying machines. Plus, there are reproductions of his masterpieces on display, too, including ‘The Last Supper’ and the ‘Mona Lisa’.
Pinocchio Park
The puppet who would be a boy is the star of Pinocchio Park near Lucca. Follow the trail through the park, dotted with tableaux of different episodes from Carlo Collodi’s 1883 fairytale The Adventures of Pinocchio. There’s a museum, gardens and a butterfly house, too.
Pistoia Zoo
From lions to giant cockroaches, there are more than 400 creatures to see close up at Pistoia Zoo where conservation and education are the watchwords. The zoo takes part in programmes to protect animals in the wild, as well as preserving endangered species within its gates, and children can find out more about the residents through special family-friendly activities.
Acqua Village
Cecina and Follonica are the places to head for with water babies. These Hawaiian-themed water parks, on the Etruscan and Maremma coasts, are packed with giant slides and play pools where young and old can make a splash. There’s also circus school, football and volleyball, and elastic carpets to bounce about on.
Museo d’Arte per Bambini
The Tuscans are so determined to get kids to embrace art that they’ve even created a museum dedicated to children aged three to 11 years of age. Museo d’Arte per Bambini in the prestigious museum complex Santa Maria Della Scala, features a collection from down the centuries that will inspire young minds, from paintings to sculpture and photography to video.
Parco Aventura Saltalbero
Does your family have a head for heights? Then take a walk in the treetops at Parco Aventura Saltalbero near Rapolano Terme in the Ombrone Valley. Wobble your way through the branches via rope bridges, ladders and swinging logs, with a variety of routes available for all ages.
To Tuscany has a fantastic range of family-friendly villas. Explore our collection of family-friendly villas for the best places to stay whilst you’re in Tuscany.
Or contact our villa specialist team, who are available to assist you. Click here to get in touch.
Why Tuscan craft beers are in a league of their own
Imagine you run a new brewery in the UK or US. Your first sale is probably going to be on tap in a pub. You’ve taken that tap from another beer, and when your first pint is sold, it’ll be at the expense of other beers on the bar.
Now imagine you’re a new Tuscan brewer instead. There’s a good chance your first sale will be to a restaurant, and that the customer has opted for it instead of a local wine. They’re probably going to be pairing it with the local cuisine rather than drinking it alone.
This alternative perspective affects everything a Tuscan brewer does, from the flavour and alcohol content of the beer to the way it’s packaged. That’s why the best Tuscan craft beers are not like other beers.
Ancient varieties of grain are used to make Tuscan beers. Photo: Villaggio della Birra
Initially inspired by America, with nods to famous traditions in the UK, Belgium, Germany and the Czech Republic, the only problem with the current global craft beer boom is that it’s starting to look a bit the same wherever you go. No matter where they are or what their background, it seems every aspiring brewer wants to create a US-style IPA, German Berliner Weisse or British golden ale. Italy – and Tuscany in particular – is a glorious exception to this trend.
Sure, hip breweries such as Chianti Brew Fighters offer style and substance with perfect examples of celebrated styles such as Irish porters or strong Belgian ales. But the entire identity of Italian food and drink is founded on celebrating local ingredients. Tuscan craft brewers recognise that they are part of this tradition.
Birrificio La Petrognola has a broad range that covers the obvious international bases but also brews an award-winning beer called Marron (6.5% ABV), featuring the celebrated local chestnuts.
The vast majority of beers use malted barley as their base, but in Tuscany a variety of ancient grains that have faded from use elsewhere are still cultivated. Farro (spelt) is a common feature in local cuisine. Added to beers such as Petrognola’s 100% Farro (4% ABV) or Birrificio Math’s Toscana Farro E Miele (6% ABV), it creates a soft, slightly spicy character that has a faint echo of Belgian wheat beer but stands on its own as a style unique to the region.
La Stecciaia takes the experiment further, with ales such as Senatrice (6.8% ABV) incorporating an ancient variety of durum wheat that adds spice and a Champagne-like spritz to a Belgian-style golden ale, and others featuring grains such as oats and emmer wheat.
These beers complement wine rather than directly competing with it, offering an alternative, matched to local cuisines. At restaurants such as Papposileno you can compare how a beer – for example Amiata’s Bastarda Rossa (6.5% ABV), a blonde chestnut ale – brings out nuances in the pappardelle with beef that are different from the contrasts offered by a juicy Chianti.
For too long, beer has been seen as separate from the rest of the culinary world; an outsider, not quite good enough to be taken seriously. Perhaps it was always going to be beer’s arrival in wine country that saw it finally take the place it deserves at the table.
What’s on in Tuscany this Summer?
The arrival of the warmer weather calls Tuscans outside as they make the most of the region’s natural surroundings, enjoying activities such as folkloric festivals by day and concerts beneath the stars by night. So take a lead from the locals with our pick of the best events in June and July.
Italy is the home of the Slow movement, so why not ease yourself into Tuscany’s fifthSlow Travel Fest, a selection of outdoor experiences including talks, hikes, culture, food and music events held along the Via Francigena over three weekends in June and September. The first, ‘Folks and Family’, takes place in Villafranca in Lunigiana and features a programme of excursions on foot, by bicycle and on horseback, as well as river hiking, storytelling, concerts, performances and workshops.
See Pisa light up during Luminara. Photo: Pisa Photography/Shutterstock
See the city of Pisa in a different light on the evening of 16 June when Luminara di San Ranieri illuminates the River Arno with 70,000 candles suspended along its banks and set afloat on the water. A magical celebration that dates from the 17th century, Luminara hails the feast of the city’s patron saint, St Ranieri, the following day. Join the crowds of Pisani to enjoy the city by flickering candlelight and watch a spectacular fireworks display launched from the old town.
Meanwhile, intense rivalries resurface every summer as Il Palio takes over the city of Siena. Not one but two spectacular horse races take place in the medieval Piazza del Campo. It’s an exhilarating time to be in Siena – in the days leading up to the race, the streets are dressed with the colourful banners of the city’s 17 contrade, or districts. On race day, the event kicks off with the blessing of the horses, followed by a parade of more than 600 participants through the buzzing streets. Then, in a fast and furious race that’s over in just three minutes, the jockeys and horses give their all to cross the finishing line first. Read ourinterview with photographer Greg Funnell about his experience of shooting the event.
See Tosca at the composer’s lakeside home. Photo: Giorgio Andreuccetti
Opera buffs can join thousands of fellow fans from around the globe at Torre del Lago for the annual Puccini Festival, held in the huge al-fresco auditorium at the late composer’s villa. The 65th edition, a comprehensive programme of Puccini’s works, including performances of Turandot, La Bohème, Madame Butterfly, Aida, Manon Lescaut, Tosca and Le Villi. Whilst there, make time to visit the museum and stroll through the grounds dotted with contemporary sculptures by the likes of Pietro Cascella, Jean-Michel Folon and Kan Yasuda. Brush up on the maestro’s operas with our bluffer’s guide here by Puccini expert Adrian Mourby.
Enter the ‘fourth dimension’ at Mercantia. Photo: Massimo Tordini
About an hour’s drive from Florence, the small hill town of Certaldo offers the intriguing opportunity to enter the ‘fourth dimension’… The international street-theatre festival Mercantia, will stimulate the senses, with performances taking place in atmospheric parts of the town, including secret gardens and quiet courtyards. Take the scenic route up by parking at the bottom of the hill and riding the funicular railway.
Cortona becomes a photo gallery in summer. Photo: Massimo Tordini
Each year, the Etruscan hilltown of Cortona hosts Cortona on the Move, a programme of contemporary photography events and exhibitions mounted around the lively town.
Meet the owner: Rosado Rosadi Palazzo Rosadi and Torre del Cielo
Rosado Rosadi is the owner of Palazzo Rosadi and Torre del Cielo, two villas featured by To Tuscany. In this series of occasional interviews with our villa owners, Rosado reveals his family’s long association with the region and talks about his beautiful properties.
“My family has been in this part of Tuscany since 1182. We were one of the first families in the region to produce the tobacco for the Toscano cigar. We also grow sunflowers, corn, olive oil and chestnuts. My ancestors built Palazzo Rosadi as a family home in 1785.
Palazzo Rosadi and our neighbouring property, Torre del Cielo, are located in Monterchi, a village in Arezzo province, which is famous for its fresco painted by Piero della Francesca, Madonna del Parto. The villas are about half an hour’s drive from Cortona in the Valtiberina. Torre del Cielo’s heritage as a border watchtower means we are in a great location right on the edge of Tuscany and Umbria, about an hour from both Siena and Florence."
The garden at Palazzo Rosadi has beautiful features, such as this walkway
“Torre del Cielo – which means Sky Tower – began life as a medieval watchtower and was built by the Medici family. Back then, Umbria was part of the Pope’s realm and remained so until 1861 when it was subsumed into the Italian state. Like many of Tuscany’s medieval towers, Torre del Cielo was constructed to allow the Medici to survey their enemies: the Papal army. In 1894, my family acquired the property and transformed it into their country house.
The last member of the family who lived there passed away in 1974, and Palazzo Rosadi remained empty until 1999. One of my good friends, Coleschi Bruno, an estate agent, urged me to rent it out – seeing a good opportunity to put something truly Tuscan on the market. So we renovated the property, adding a pool, along with the kitchen, four of the bedrooms, and a bathroom. Today, Palazzo Rosadi has six bedrooms, all en-suite.
Each winter we do major works on both properties. It’s a continuing labour of love; not a one-off job. It’s the same attitude I have towards my guests. We don’t have them check in and hand over the keys, and that’s it. As part of the rental fee we include all sorts of extras: a welcome arrival buffet, a tour of the valley, visiting such sights as the monastery where St Francis of Assisi lived, and a wine tasting at a local vineyard."
Dine al fresco as dusk falls at Palazzo Rosadi
“Before beginning to renovate Palazzo Rosadi, I had absolutely no experience of restoring or renting out villas. I got priceless advice from Sean Caulfield of To Tuscany, which helped me pre-empt what guests expect: air-conditioning, for example is a must in August, as is a pool. I rented Palazzo Rosadi for the first time in the year 2000, to an English family. I remember them well, and fondly.
For the initial restoration of Palazzo Rosadi, which took nine months, I put together a team of 14. This included an architect, builders, carpenters, plumbers, and electricians. I chose a local architect, Casacci Claudio, who had worked with the region’s villas for generations, and knew their histories, and how to keep the integrity of their traditional Tuscan design styles.
Because I’ve done the restoration in stages, it’s hard to gauge the cost. It’s always ongoing. Just to renovate three bathrooms at Palazzo Rosadi recently, cost €98,000. But I don’t do things by halves. I always want to use the best materials, taps, tiles, etc. I’ve maybe spent between €1.5 million per property in total so far."
Treat yourself to a dip in the hot tub at Palazzo Rosadi
“In 2005, after witnessing the success of Palazzo Rosadi, I began work on transforming Torre del Cielo from a family country house to a rental property. I wanted two villas with different styles. Palazzo Rosadi is bigger, grander, more elegant. It’s a classic Tuscan villa (and my wife’s favourite). Torre del Cielo is smaller, cosier, more rustic (and the favourite of my two daughters).
One of the key elements I wanted to bring to each property, along with a showpiece swimming pool, was to have every bedroom with an en-suite bathroom – it’s something I prefer when travelling.
Palazzo Rosadi is decorated with a mix of original restored furniture owned by my family – carved wooden beds, ornamental antiques – along with modern kitchen and bathrooms. Torre del Cielo has a more simple, rural Tuscan style. In both properties, we wanted to keep as many of the original design features as possible. You’ll find flagstone floors, and terracotta floor tiles, lots of wood from local nut trees, and each bedroom has its own colour scheme, different paintings and decorative accents."
Torre del Cielo was originally an ancient watchtower
“I bought much of the furniture, ad hoc, in small shops in and around Sansepolcro, where I live, not far from where the villas are located. When I find something I like, I buy it. Some pieces were made originally for the villa, and I wanted to leave some of these family objects to create the feeling of a family home, because this is part of the story of these villas. Apart from the bathrooms, much of which was sourced from Devon&Devon.
My creative goal was to impart a real sense of Tuscan charm; to keep key Tuscan traditional details with some added modern Italian flair. I didn’t want a super-modern property that could be found anywhere in the world."
A cosy night’s sleep awaits at Torre del Cielo
“While the interiors of both houses are beautiful, the grounds have been a long-standing labour of love for my family, for generations. Palazzo Rosadi’s gardens are almost 1 hectare, plus there’s another 25 hectares of land. Torre del Cielo is surrounded by 11 hectares of land, and the garden is about half a hectare in size.
Our gardener, Martino, does an enormous amount of seasonal planting, working from March onwards. Between the two properties, we have about 25 lemon trees that are a quarter of a century old – we house them in the barn during the winter. There are plenty of lovely old olive trees, too. In the gardens, throughout the year, we have a rotating range of 220 kinds of roses, plus marigolds, zinnia, agapanthus, and petunia. It’s labour-intensive but beautiful work; there’s something blooming year-round. It’s always colourful. The estates offer amazing panoramas of the countryside, too. They are both set above a small hamlet, at about 400 metres, surrounded by rolling countryside."
The pool is bound to be at the heart of the action if you stay at Torre del Cielo
“At the end of the valley, the town of Monterchi has all the services guests could want – restaurants, supermarkets, bars. You can walk there through the valley, or borrow one of the villas’ bikes.
The setting is so peaceful that we have some guests who simply want to sit and enjoy the relaxing locale, reading books all day. They don’t move at all. If that’s the case, we can provide a chef for meals, or cooking classes, and we can do their shopping for them. But we also host plenty of people who want to spend every day visiting Tuscany and Umbria’s sights. Because of the villas’ location, right on Tuscan-Umbrian border, it’s really easy to hit the must-sees.”
Find out more about Torre del Cielo at to-tuscany.com/torredelcielo and Palazzo Rosadi at to-tuscany.com/palazzorosadi
Try these games to keep the kids amused
Been relaxing around the pool all day? Don’t fancy getting dressed up to go out? Here are some fun games to liven up an evening at the villa. (In fact, you could even play some of these on the go – how about in the queue to the Uffizi?)
How’s yours?
Select a player to be the questioner – he/she should leave the room or cover their ears. Meanwhile, the rest decide on something that they all possess, for example a car or a telephone number. The questioner returns but can only ask individuals the question “How’s yours?”. The other players must answer with a detail that doesn’t give a lot away (but also isn’t so vague that the game can’t progress). The questioner must overcome their growing frustration to work out what the ‘thing’ is. Once they guess correctly, a new questioner is nominated and the game continues.
When I went on my holiday…
In this well-known memory game players take it in turns to add an item to a list, but first they must recall all the previous items before adding another. For example, Player 1 starts with “When I went on my holiday I brought with me some flip flops”. Player 2 continues, saying, “When I went on my holiday I brought with me some flip flops and a game of Tetris.” Player 3 says, “When I went on my holidays I brought with me some flip flops, a game of Tetris and my sense of dignity!” And so on… If you make a mistake you’re out and the winner is the last one standing.
Fortunately unfortunately
This storytelling game is a great way to get your creative juices flowing. Each player takes it in turns to add a sentence to the story, alternating with either fortunately or unfortunately to start the sentence. Here’s an example of how it might go.
Player 1 says, “Once upon a time there was a frog sitting peacefully on a water lily.” Player 2 counters, “Unfortunately his feet were stuck to the leaf and he couldn’t jump off.” Player 3 adds, “Fortunately a wave came along and the frog realised he was a rather talented surfer.” Player 4 says, “Unfortunately the leaf split in two and he discovered he wasn’t quite as good at water skiing…” And so on…
Wink murder
Choose an investigator from the group. Ask them to leave the room and nominate a murderer. Ask the investigator to return, all gather in a circle and the game can begin. The murderer must wink at people to signal their death. The person winked at must then die – relish your chance to show your acting skills. Now the investigator has three chances to guess the identity of the murderer.
The best places in Tuscany to find a souvenir to treasure
Tuscany’s markets aren’t all about food. Check out this guide to the best places to pick up an antique or piece of art for a more authentic souvenir.Florence
Mercato delle Pulci, in Florence’s Piazza dei Ciompi, is a daily flea market selling furniture, antiques, prints, coins, jewellery, bric-a-brac and antiquarian books. There is even more to browse on the last Sunday of every month, except during August, when extra stalls are added.Siena
Piazza del Mercato is filled with stalls selling antiques and bric-a-brac on the third Sunday of the month, except during August. The old marketplace in which it is set is also worth seeing; it’s known as Il Tartarugone because the roof looks like the shell of a tortoise.Lucca
Lucca’s antiques market is a local favourite. You’ll find it by the Cathedral of San Martino on the third weekend of the month. Meanwhile, on the same weekend, contemporary art and sculpture created by local creatives are showcased at Mostra Piazzetta dell’Arte, an open-air exhibition staged at Piazzetta San Carlo and Piazzetta dell’Arancio.Arezzo
Fiera Antiquaria draws more than 400 exhibitors from across Italy to the city on the last Saturday and first Sunday of each month. No wonder this famous antiques market, held in the city centre, is a big hit with collectors.Pistoia
The former Breda engineering factory, in Via Pertini, provides an unusual location for this market, which sells antiques, bric-a-brac and contemporary art on the second weekend of every month.Perugia
Ceramics and antique costume jewellery are among the highlights for browsers at Perugia’s monthly market. It takes place in the Palazzo della Prefettura in summer and Rocca Paolina in winter.
Shop like a Tuscan (at some of the best food markets in the world)
Food is part of the Tuscan identity and the markets here are famous for selling great quality local produce. So how can you make the most of your Tuscan market experience to get an authentic taste of the region?
Here are our top tips for shopping at food markets in Tuscany:
1. Don’t try to overcomplicate things
Firstly, keep it simple. You’ll find Tuscan flavours to savour even if you just buy a loaf of freshly made bread and some local olive oil to dip it in, a packet of ricciarelli or cavallucci biscuits to share, or a sandwich made with pecorino or caciotta cheese and local salumi (if you’ve never tasted a finocchiona sandwich, you really should).
That Tuscan bread forms the basis of many favourite regional dishes, too, which are easy to make at your villa – such as ribollita (vegetable soup), pappa al pomodoro (bread and tomatoes), and summer favourite panzanella (tomato and bread salad). Pici, a thick rustic spaghetti from the Siena area, is delicious dressed with a tomato or ragù sauce.
2. Buy what is in season
Italians always cook with the vegetables and fruits that are in season, just as they return to the same cheese stall week after week. Don’t be afraid to ask to try the food you’re thinking of buying – you will learn by tasting as you shop. ‘Posso assaggiare, per favore’ is all you need to say.
There are markets across Tuscany, but here are some of our favourites.
Mercato Centrale di San Lorenzo, Florence
Try specialities such as a Lampredotto panino (tripe sandwich) at the food hall in Florence’s 19th-century iron-and-glass-covered market. You’ll find carne Chianina here, too, the prestigious meat from Chianina cattle, one of the oldest breeds in the world, from nearby Valchiana. Ask for a Fiorentina, a thick cut of beef that has the bone attached, then cook it rare back at the villa. Time and place: 10am-12pm daily, Piazza del Mercato Centrale.
Mercato delle Vettovaglie, Livorno
Sometimes simply called Mercato Centrale, the fishermen deliver their catch in the morning, and by lunchtime the signore livornese are rustling up delicacies such as cacciucco alla livornese (a thick soup with fish and seafood), triglie alla livornese (red mullet cooked in tomatoes and garlic), and baccalà alla livornese (cod with potatoes and onion in a tomato). The market has two rooms, one for fish and the other for fruit, veg, bread, wine and other local products, so you’ll find everything you need. Red mullet or cod are good choices for building up your confidence in cooking like the Tuscans – and some local white wine to accompany the dish you create. Time and place: 7.30am-2pm Monday to Saturday, Via Buontalenti.
Thursday market, San Gimignano
What better setting for some gastronomic shopping than beneath the towers of San Gimignano? The town’s Thursday market offers local products such as saffron and salumi made from the Cinta Senese, a breed of pigs that’s bred on the Sienese hills, that include prosciutto, salami and capocollo. Then there’s pecorino from Val d’Orcia. Pick up a porchetta sandwich as you browse (roasted suckling pig with garlic and herbs) – when it’s good, it’s divine. Time and place: 8.30am-1.30pm Thursday, Piazza Duomo, Piazza delle Erbe, Piazza della Cisterna.
Mercato Logge del Grano, Arezzo
Tuscany has its fair share of farmers’ markets offering the opportunity to buy direct from the producers seasonal, genuinely local (and also organic) products, often with DOP or IGP certificates of quality. This one in the province of Arezzo is good for Tuscan wines, oil, cheeses such as pecorino and caprino, salumi such as briciolona and finocchiona. Freshly made dishes include polpette (meatballs) and sauces for pasta. Time and place: 9am-2.30pm, 4.30-8pm Monday to Saturday and first Sunday of every month, Piazzetta Logge del Grano, 5.
Terra di Prato, Prato
Prato is easy on the eye and has a wonderful weekly farmers’ market, too, where you can buy salumi, cheeses, meat, fish, honey, jam, wine, oil, fresh pasta and bread. The stallholders take a summer break in the second half of August, so it’s best to check the Facebook page for details (@mercatoterradiprato). Time and place: 8am-1pm Saturday, Piazza di Mercato Nuovo.
Saturday market, Cortona
The market in pretty Cortona takes place in one of its most picturesque spots, the Piazza Signorelli and surrounding streets. Pick up local cheeses and salumi and a loaf of Tuscan bread to whip up a few bruschetta topped with some plump summer tomatoes. If you want inspiration about how to cook like a local, stop for lunch at Osteria del Teatro. Time and place: Saturday morning, Piazza Signorelli. Osteria del Teatro, via Giuseppe Maffei 2.
What to look for in a family villa in Tuscany
Over the past 20 years, we have been kindly trusted with thousands of family holidays in Tuscany. During this time we have picked up plenty of insider tips to make your next villa holiday an unforgettable one. Here are our top tips when it comes to choosing the perfect villa for your family:
Book enough bedrooms…
While many of our villas offer flexible living, some including sofa beds to maximise space, try to avoid skimping on the amount of bedrooms. The kids will have a more peaceful night in a room on which you can shut the door – and you won’t have to tiptoe around the villa after you’ve put them to bed.
… and bathrooms
As well as enough beds, extra bathrooms help keep everyone happy. You might not need a private bathroom for each individual bedroom, but book a villa with at least two to cut down on the amount of waiting – and potential arguments.
What kind of pool do you fancy?
We pride ourselves on the fact that the vast majority of our villas have access to a swimming pool. But which to choose for a family holiday, private or shared? There’s no doubt a private pool is a real treat – and if you opt for one, you might like to make sure it’s fenced or close to the house to keep children safe. But a shared pool offers the chance to mingle with other families, an easy way to help the kids make holiday friends.
Is there space inside and out?
Choose a villa with a few communal spaces, both inside and out. This will enable everyone to find a quiet corner should they want some private time and to ensure you’ve somewhere to gather under cover if you’re unlucky enough to experience a rainy day.
Keep connected
You might dream of taking a break from digital life, but for many families Wi-Fi is the key to a happy holiday, especially if you’re travelling with teenagers. Wi-Fi allows your kids to use their devices for entertainment, to stay in touch with friends, and to share photos and activities from the trip. It also means you can stay up-to-date with news, social media and, if you must, your emails.
Stop the boredom
Lots of our villas have activities on site, from tennis courts to snooker and ping pong. In many you’ll find books, DVDs and board games, too. Check out the fine details of your preferred villa’s page to see what is available.
Get out and about
Seclusion is nice, but so is history, culture, and nightlife. Unless you are a very self-contained family, it’s a good idea to choose a villa that is close to a town or village with shopping and restaurants – if eating out is important, choosing a villa within walking distance of good eateries is a bonus.
Explore our range of excellent family-friendly villas to find the perfect one for your holiday.
Or contact our villa specialist team, who are available to assist you. Click here to get in touch.
Let there be light for Pisa’s patron saint
They know how to throw a party in Tuscany, the annual calendar is filled with festivals and special events. One of the more unusual is the Luminara, a festival of lights that takes place in Pisa in spring.
As the sun sets on the city on 16 June, more than 70,000 candles, lumini, are hung on the ancient palaces that line the Lungarni by the River Arno, and float on its waters. Crowds gather on the banks of the river to see the city take on an ethereal glow and also watch the climax of the evening, a huge fireworks display launched from the old citadel.
But what’s it all about? La Luminara is held in honour of St Rainerius – or San Rainieri – the patron saint of travellers and of Pisa, the city of his birth. Born Rainerius Scacceri in 1115 to a wealthy family, he worked as a travelling minstrel in his youth. On his travels, Rainerius met a holy man named Alberto, a nobleman from Corsica who had forgone his wealth to join the monastery of St Vitus in Pisa and work with the poor.
Rainerius was so impressed by Alberto’s story that he decided to devote his life to Christianity, journeying to the Holy Land in 1146, where he served his penance as a hermit and beggar. Returning to Pisa in 1153, word soon spread about this charismatic preacher who was said to have the power to perform miracles and exorcisms. When he died, just seven years later in 1160, he was already regarded as a saint and his body was carried through the streets to be laid to rest in the Duomo.
Today, the Luminari isn’t the only way Pisa marks San Ranieri’s memory. He is also remembered in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, where two treasures associated with him can be seen; the hermit robe he wore, and an exquisite medieval bronze gate, that once stood in the cathedral, with 24 panels, each telling a story from the New Testament.
Eight hidden gems to visit in Tuscany
Finding new and lesser-known places in Tuscany can mean your trip is truly unforgettable. The charm and unassuming appeal of the local villages in the region offer a wonderfully authentic experience. These hidden gems may not often be included in the guidebooks but they are well worth seeking out.
1.Monticchiello
The walled village of Monticchiello is the counterpoint to over-popular Pienza, viewed from its medieval ramparts. Strung out along the crest of a hill, this fortified hamlet is proud of its peasant origins, which are showcased in “poor-man’s theatre” every summer. Starring the villagers themselves, this “peasants’ play” (Teatro Povero) presents rural life, embracing social protest and marginalisation. To show your support, you’ll probably want to stay for the peasant cooking, ranging from chickpea or bean soups to tripe and rabbit dishes.
Osteria La Porta, on Via del Piano, would tempt princes or peasants with its tasty pici, stubby pasta served with sheep’s milk cheese.
2 Radicofani
Set on the edges of prettified Val d’Orcia and rugged Monte Amiata, Radicofani remains an arresting borderlands stronghold, trapped in a medieval limbo. The writer Charles Dickens called this rocky spur of a setting “as barren, as stony, and as wild as Cornwall”. Now a ravishing backwater, Radicofani first flourished as a Sienese bulwark against Florentine power and as a stop on the Via Francigena pilgrimage route to Rome. Crowned by a castle, perched on a craggy basalt rock, known as La Fortezza, this Medici fortress now houses the Museo del Cassero, with an Etruscan and medieval collection.
3 Civitella in Val di Chiana
Often dismissed as a lunch spot between the Chianti and ArezzoCivitella in Val di Chiana is worth more time than it takes to devour a Tuscan T-bone steak. Like Arezzo, the provincial capital, this rural backwater has not sold its soul to tourism. Apart from being a bastion of Slow Food, with chickpea soup and roast rabbit on the menu, Civitella is small-town Tuscany. Unfurled along a ridge, this fortified outpost surveys cypresses and olive groves. Beyond the medieval gateway lie vaulted alleyways and a Romanesque church,forming a timeless scene surmounted by a ruined castle.
4 LucignanoLucignano, west of the more celebrated Cortona, offers another taste of the Val di Chiana, famous for its Florentine steaks. This oval-shaped hill town, tucked into medieval walls, enjoys a commanding view of the Val di Chiana. It’s a pleasing game of concentric circles converging on the central square, where temporal and spiritual powers meet in the Gothic town hall and its shadow power, the church of San Michele. Feast on T-Bone steak inIl Goccino, on Via Matteotti, and, for contrast, consider a spot of designer shopping in the Valdichiana Outlet Village in neighbouring Foiano della Chiana.
5 Bolgheri
Wine-growing Bolgheri is synonymous with the all-conquering super-Tuscan wines that make this stretch of the Etruscan Coast so special. Forget incongruous images of beady-eyed Etruscans lounging under beach umbrellas, much as they do on funerary urns. At Cecina, south of Castiglioncello, leave the Costa degli Etruschi for medieval Bolgheri. Charming though tiny Bolgheri is, it’s really a stepping stone to the Etruscan Riviera wine trail, complete with low-slung farmhouses and Tuscany’s most acclaimed wines. Sassicaia, Ornellaia and Solaia spell the future of Tuscan wine-making, with Ornellaia the most intriguing estate, run by the illustrious Frescobaldi dynasty, who’ve been in wine for 700 years.
6 Volpaia
Volpaia is a revitalised village just off the Chiantigiana, or Chianti Way. It’s both a cinematic hamlet and the hub of a sustainable community. On the surface, this outpost looks the part, with fierce towers, tortuous alleys, deconsecrated churches and secret courtyards. Yet Castello di Volpaia is a castle and winery repurposed for modern living, without sacrificing the soul of the village or its surface sheen of antiquity. Given its vineyards and farmlands, Volpaia is virtually self-sufficient, with estate workers housed within the walls. The local lifeblood is wine and olive oil, with low-key tourism flowing in its wake, like a vintage Chianti.
7 Monteriggioni
Monteriggioni
Often dubbed “the gateway to the Middle Ages”, walled Monteriggioni is the quintessential medieval town, bristling with fortifications. Ringed by towers, this theatrical Sienese hilltop settlement was built as a bulwark against Florentine foes. Today, it’s a place for dolce far niente, the sweet art of doing nothing at all. Monteriggioni in Arme, the evocative Museum of Arms, conjures up chivalric times. Walking these battlements gives a true sense of what it must have been like to be a medieval knight. It’s not surprising that the town inspired the popular Assassin’s Creed film and video game franchise.
8 San Giovanni d’Asso
Set in rolling countryside north of Montalcino, San Giovanni d’Asso is a glorified hamlet that thinks itself a city-state, Tuscan-style. San Giovanni retains its medieval street plan and proud urban spirit, pride at odds with its current status as truffle-fest-with-castle-attached. Medieval insecurity accounts for the cluster of castles built in this sleepy corner of Siena province. Despite two Romanesque churches, San Giovanni is mostly about the medieval mood of its terracotta-tinged castle, home to the Museo del Tartufo, the White Truffle Museum. Snaffle up the autumn truffle fair or ride the occasional Nature Train, a journey through the surrounding landscape.
Things to do in Tuscany for any itinerary
With so much on offer in Tuscany, it can be difficult to know where to start. We have compiled the top things to add to your itinerary during your Tuscan holiday whether you are looking for something to do with your children, places to try the very best local wines or galleries of some of the world’s most famous art collections.Tuscany’s art
Uffizi Gallery
The Uffizi Gallery is a must-see if you’re making a day trip to Florence during your stay because it’s home to one of the world’s best collections of Renaissance art. Michelangelo’s ‘Holy Family’, Botticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus’, and Canaletto’s ‘View of the Grand Canal’ are just a few of the treasures to tick off your list.
Leonardiano Museum
TheLeonardiano Museum, in the master’s birthplace, Vinci, west of Florence, is no dusty parochial detailing of Leonardo da Vinci’s life. Instead, at its heart is a fascinating collection of models of the mechanisms he imagined, including a flying machine, and there’s a high-definition digital reproduction of his famous mural, ‘The Last Supper’.
The Luigi Pecci Center for Contemporary Art in Prato is welcoming
visitors again. Photo: Michela Osteri/Creative Commons
Centro Pecci
The visual arts, cinema, music, architecture, design, fashion, literature, the performing arts – no branch of contemporary art is unscrutinised at Centro Pecci in Prato. The gallery – itself a saucer-shaped spectacle, designed by Italo Gamberini and extended by Maurice Nio – has hosted distinguished exhibitions including ‘Nudes’ by the late Chinese photographer and poet Ren Hang.
Tuscany for children
Pinocchio Park
Children can immerse themselves in one of the world’s favourite fairytales atPinocchio Parknear Pistoia. Carlo Collodi’s story about the puppet with ambitions to become a real boy is gently told in a garden set with bronze and steel sculptures of characters and settings from the book, plus there’s a small museum. A zipwire adventure in the trees adds a few thrills.
Acqua Villages
The fun is more raucous at Acqua Villages at Cecina and Follonica, two South Seas-style fantasy sites cast adrift in the Tuscan landscape. Whizz around snaking flumes and shoot down perilously steep slides for the ultimate splashdown in the cool pools below. Plus there are safe spaces for tiny tots to enjoy some watery fun, too.
Parco Avventura Il Gigante
Another place to get the family’s adrenaline pumping is Parco Avventura Il Gigante near Florence. Young or old, your head for heights will be put to the test on the ziplines and Tibetan bridges that weave through the canopy of an oak forest.
Tuscany’s Gardens
'The Planets’ is another striking installation in Daniel Spoerri’s Garden. Photo: Susanne Neumann
Daniel Spoerri’s Garden
Art meets nature in several locations across Tuscany, including at Daniel Spoerri’s Garden. It’s named after the Swiss artist who has carefully positioned his collection of 113 installations by 55 artists here in a wild mountainous spot near Seggiano. Look out for the two works by the renowned Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely, famed for his kinetic art.
Tarot Garden
The eye-popping Tarot Garden near Garavicchio is the legacy of the late French-American sculptor, painter and filmmaker Niki de Saint Phalle. Here, she constructed more than 20 monumental figures about the symbols of the Tarot, assisted by her second husband, the sculptor Jean Tinguely (see above). If you’ve been to Parc Guell in Barcelona, you’ll immediately recognise the influence of the Catalan artist Antoni Gaudi in the giant mosaic-clad sculptures.
The Pratolino Medici Park is home to some monumental statues, including the 10.7-metre-high ‘Colosso del Appennino’. Photo: Mikolaj Wierzbicki
Pratolino Medici Park
More monumental works of art can be seen at thePratolino Medici Park near Vaglia, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Famed for its Renaissance grottos, fountains and statues, you can’t miss the park’s 10.7-metre-high Appennine Colossus, gazing into the waters of a small lake. These massive marvels were adornments for a villa that once stood here, designed by Buontalenti for the powerful Medici family in the late 16th century.
Tuscany’s Wines
The Antinori winery in Chianti Classico is an organic sculpture that blends into the surrounding landscape. Photo: Ivan Franco Bottoni/Unsplash
One of Tuscany’s greatest attractions, of course, is its delicious wines. Many of the local vineyards are opening for tastings once more, not only of the red and white wines they produce, but also Vinsanto, Grappa and extra virgin olive oil. Among their number is Casanuova di Ama, near Gaiole, a family-run farm in the prime vineyards of Chianti Classico. AtCastello Nipozzano near Pelago, a medieval castle provides the backdrop to the winery in Chianti Rufina territory, with cellars and a house to tour, as well as tastings. Col d’Orcia, an organic producer overlooking the Orcia river near Montalcino, is in Brunello country and offers tours of the farm that provide an insight into its biodynamic approach. Meanwhile, cutting-edge architecture meets venerable winemaking atAntinori nel Chianti Classico, south of Florence. The Antinori family has been making wine in Tuscany since the Middle Ages, but the sculptural winery by architect Marco Casamonti, with its glass tasting room suspended above the cellar, is thoroughly 21st century.
Are you inspired to visit Tuscany and explore a region rich in culture, beauty and history? Explore our completecollection of villasto start planning your Tuscan holiday today.
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The Big Picture: The Palio
London-based Greg Funnell has been a professional photographer for more than 10 years and his work regularly appears in publications including The Sunday Times, Financial Times and Vanity Fair. A documentary photographer by profession, he is also a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society and his job has varied from working in war zones to covering cultural events. This image is from a collection taken at the famous Tuscany horse race, The Palio, which takes place in July and August each year. Tuscan Guru asked him about his approach to capturing this classic spectacle through his reportage lens.
TG: What interested you in The Palio as a subject?
GF: I’m very interested in the masculinity displayed in certain cultures, the idea of self-sufficiency and the heroics represented by it. The Palio is full of intrigue, but on the surface the jockeys are god-like figures, almost mythical. They’re put on pedestals by the various contradas [the different districts of Siena] and worshipped like athletes. There’s a romance to it all, but a deeper, darker side that interests me, too.
TG: Photos of The Palio tend to focus on the vast crowds, yet for this image you chose to make one rider and his horse the focus, why?
GF: A lot of my pictures from this collection do focus on the build-up and the crowd, but in the pre-race moment. I’m always looking to capture energy and freeze the moment so that you really get a sense of the drama – a still photo is 2D and needs to have an emotion in it to communicate in the best way it can. This photo captures a moment; it’s about the guy fighting to win the competition, but doing it at one with an animal. Naturally, you get the movement in the shot, which adds to the sense of drama.
TG: Why did you choose to shoot The Palio in black and white?
GF: The Palio is an incredibly colourful event. Yet, the pomp and ceremony detracts from its grittier nature. It’s all a disguise, like a conjurer’s trick, to distract your eyes and brain. But for me, the Palio is about the people, the animals and the emotions. The only way to get to grips with that was to lose the colour entirely. I also wanted the pictures to feel timeless and colour dates too quickly. I didn’t want it to be about a specific Palio in a specific year, I wanted the images to be about The Palio, to represent something bigger.
TG: As a British photographer, did you feel like an outsider?
GF: Very much so in some ways – but I’m always the outsider, it’s where I’m comfortable being. I like being ignored so that I can work. If I am the focus of attention, I can’t make good pictures. This was useful for The Palio – if you had any political allegiances with one contrade over another, that would make life difficult. That’s the level of seriousness with which the event is taken, husbands and wives from different contrada sometimes don’t speak to each other in the run up to The Palio. The tension is that high.
TG: The race is fast and furious, what was it like to shoot?
GF: The race takes place for less fewer than three minutes and the photographers are allowed on the track with the horses – there’s no barrier. Yet, the real danger, according to the local photographers, is the crowd after the race, because they surge onto the track and you can get caught in a stampede. It’s quite a visceral experience. As a photographer you’re caught up in the physicality of the event. I love that. It forces you to be part of it and engage your senses; you have a role to get those pictures – that’s your own private battle and race.
You can see more images from Greg’s collection, The Palio, and his other work here.
What to expect from a Tuscan Cookery Class?
”Mess, don’t press!” Simone, chef-owner of the Ristorante Malborghetto, is showing me how to make a ragù.
“This way we mix all the flavours – and we don’t burn the pan,” he smiles. He’s right. Although we cook the meaty stew for more than two hours, a little gentle coaxing with the spoon and a regular slug of water keeps the washing-up to a minimum. “Water adds no flavour and takes no flavour away,” counsels Simone.
This is just one of the many tips, useful for a host of recipes, that Simone imparts during the three-hour cookery class my husband, Dean, and I have signed up for at his restaurant in Lecchi in Chianti. It’s a fun way to spend a morning of our villa holiday with To Tuscany
And the ragù is only one of the dishes we will prepare during the course of the morning in his professional kitchen. By the time we are joined by our friends for lunch – hungry to sample the results of our morning’s toil over a hot stove – we will be ready to serve up a four-course feast, featuring crostone di porcini, salsicce e fagioli, and tiramisu, too.
Our session began earlier that morning with a chat over a coffee, gaining a little insight into how Simone had ended up championing the produce of his native region in this pretty stone hamlet in the Tuscan hills. Then, aprons on – embroidered with our names, souvenirs to take home – we got straight down to business prepping lunch.
We started at the end, with the tiramisu, “to allow it plenty of time to set”, explained Simone. First, he got us separating the eggs like experts, shell to shell, then whisking the whites until we could lift the bowl upside down over our heads without risking a foamy new hairdo.
In another bowl, we beat the yolks with some mascarpone and sugar. Then we folded in the whites to create a light cream and began assembling the dish, layer upon layer of sweet liquid and sponge biscuits quickly dipped in a bowl of watery espresso. “Just touch the coffee,” said Simone, “you don’t want it to be too strong, you want to give a hint of its flavour.”
With the tiramisu in the fridge and the ragù underway, we turned our attention to the art of making gnocci, kneading a soft dough of potatoes, flour, egg, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and a sprinkling of nutmeg. We rolled sausages of the mixture and chopped them into thumbnail-sized dumplings, rolling some into balls in our hands. Then we placed them on a tray for firming up in the fridge before their final destiny, the boiling water bath in the corner.
Next, we browned a healthy pile of meaty sausages, from Simone’s favourite local butcher, in olive oil, garlic, sage and rosemary. The heady aroma infused the cannellini beans and tomatoes we added to the pan, slowly braising the hearty mixture with the help of our constant friend – “a zip of water”.
Then Simone taught us a little frill, how to create a Parmesan basket to serve our ragù and gnocci in. Turning a pancake of molten cheese over a small glass bowl is not as easy as it sounds. But Simone had seen it all before: “Once you’ve done your first, it will become easier,” he smiled patiently at my initial lop-sided attempt.
And finally, we reached the beginning, searing the crostone on Simone’s large grill, then assembling the earthy topping of porcini, garlic, rosemary and salt. “Just clean the porcini with a damp cloth, not too much water,” he advised.
With our friends now seated at the table in Simone’s cosy dining room, we put our creations to the taste test, each course accompanied by an expertly paired glass of wine. The diners all agreed, we had, indeed, prepared a Tuscan feast – thanks to more than a little help from our new chef friend.
Return to medieval times at these three fun festivals
Scoppio Del Carro
When the Crusaders conquered Jerusalem in 1099, a member of the Florentine Pazzi family was the first to raise a Christian banner above the city. As a reward, he was given three previous pieces of stone from the Holy Sepulchre. Each Easter, these stones were used to light a fire to symbolise new life and city dwellers would catch a light from the fire to take home and ignite their own hearths. Today, Scoppio Del Carro, or the Explosion of the Cart, is a rather unusual take on the tradition. On Easter Sunday, a large decorative cart is pulled by white oxen through Florence to the cathedral square. Here a dove-shaped rocket is lit, which speeds down a wire from the cathedral and blows up the cart.
Giostra dell’Archidado
Cortona’s residents turn out on the second Sunday in June for Giostra dell’Archidado, a crossbow competition that commemorates the wedding in 1397 of the lord of Cortona, Francesco Casali, and his bride, the Sienese noblewoman Antonia Salimbeni. As well as the quest to win the golden arrow, there’s a big parade of medieval characters in period dress through the city’s streets, a re-enactment of the wedding, and a jousting tournament.
Volterra AD 1398
One of the biggest and best medieval festivals in Italy takes place in Volterra in the last week of August, when the town steps back in time to the year 1398. The city centre and grounds of the castle host parades and battles, feasts and entertainment, with knights and damsels, jesters and minstrels strolling the streets, and blacksmiths and carpenters setting up shop along Volterra’s alleyways. Even medieval money becomes the common currency.
White gold: tuck into Tuscany’s truffles
Tuscany’s truffles may not have the profile of Piedmont or Périgord, yet those in the know prize the precious white nuggets found in the hills here, especially around San Miniato. There are strict rules about how and when truffles are gathered, with specialist hunters heading out with their dogs to snout out the rare fungi in secret locations deep in the woods from October to December.
The quality of truffles depends on the weather, the best conditions being not too wet nor too dry. These fungi are best eaten when they’re fresh and fragrant, within three days of being unearthed. A good round truffle with few imperfections is the one to buy. Wash it under running water with a small brush and dry carefully.
Hunters and their dogs seek out the fungi in secret locations.
A truffle the size of an egg should be enough for a main course for four to five people. Make sure it’s the dominant flavour of your dish – after all, why should it compete? – and don’t overcook it. Shave the truffle to make it go further and add just before serving to capture as much of its flavour and aroma as you can.
San Miniato hosts a major local festival.
Delicious ways to serve truffle include sprinkling shavings over pasta or risotto. Pop slices under the skin of a chicken and leave to infuse before roasting, or add it to a soup or sauce. And here’s a tip: infuse eggs or cheese with lovely truffle flavour by storing them with it in an airtight box.
As autumn turns to winter, celebrate the truffle season at the special markets and fairs that spring up across the region. Here are some of the best to visit:
Corazzano Truffle Festival
Listen to talks or just indulge in tasting truffles at Corazzano’s popular annual festival.
www.eventiesagre.it
Balconevisi Truffle and Porcini Mushroom Fair
This lesser-known sagra, held in mid October, is the place to buy truffles straight from those who gather them from the ground. Other tasty produce, such as oil and walnuts, will be on sale, too.
San Miniato Truffle Fair
Last three weekends of November
This internationally renowned festival, started in 1969 and held over the last three weekends of November, is the highlight of Tuscany’s truffle season, with lots of gastronomic events to enjoy and a busy market to browse.
www.san-miniato.com
San Giovanni d’Asso Truffle Fair
Another classic Tuscan truffle fair, which takes place on the second and third weekends of November. If you make a date to visit, be sure to look around the town’s museum dedicated to the famous fungi, too.
www.cittadeltartufo.com
All aboard the Nature Train
Travel to a truffle festival in style on a steam train. Board the Treno Natura in Siena for a journey with sublime views of Tuscany’s countryside to San Giovanni d’Asso. It’s very popular, so book ahead.
www.terresiena.it/trenonatura
These four blockbuster movies were all set in Tuscany
A Room With A View (1985) Director: James Ivory
When a young Englishwoman, Lucy Honeychurch (Helena Bonham Carter), and her prim chaperone, Charlotte Bartlett (Maggie Smith), arrive in Florence, the capital of Tuscany, in the 1900s, they are given rooms without views. Fellow guests Mr Emerson and his son, George (Julian Sands), graciously offer to switch their rooms with the ladies – allowing them a clear view of the Ponte Vecchio bridge over the River Arno.
Gorgeous cinematography and stirring opera music underscore the unfolding love story of passionate Lucy and free-spirited George. This Oscar-winning film mixes panoramic views and detailed close-ups of Florence’s historic centre, including the scene at Dante’s tomb in the Basilica di Santa Croce, where a Florentine offers to accompany Lucy to view the Giotto frescoes, and the flower-filled hillsides of Fiesole, where Lucy has her first kiss with GeorgeMuch Ado About Nothing (1993) Director: Kenneth Branagh
Branagh chose Villa Vignamaggio as the setting for his outstanding adaptation of Shakespeare’s theatrical comedy, Much Ado About Nothing, in which young lovers Hero (Kate Beckinsale) and Claudio (Robert Sean Leonard), soon to be wed at the home of Leonato (Richard Briers), conspire to trick verbal sparring partners and confirmed singles, Beatrice (Emma Thompson) and Benedick (Kenneth Branagh), into confessing their true love for each other. The Vignamaggio estate sits on a hill just outside the town of Greve, in the heart of Italy’s most famous wine-making region, Chianti Classico. Most of the story unfolds in the rooms and courtyards of the villa, as well as in the estate’s Renaissance garden and orchards, contributing a sense of timelessness and isolation from the rest of the world. It’s an uplifting movie, especially the final scene, shot with a single camera in one take, in which the villa’s guests sing and dance around the gardens in a joyful celebration. The English Patient (1996) Director: Anthony Minghella
In a crumbling villa in Italy during the Second World War, Hana (Juliette Binoche), a nurse, tends to her badly burned, semi-amnesiac patient, Laszlo de Almásy (Ralph Fiennes). His past is shown in flashbacks, revealing his involvement in a fateful love affair. Minghella’s beguiling Oscar-winning adaptation of Michael Ondaatje’s novel has many scenes that were filmed on location in Tuscany. Some external shots show the hamlet of Ripafratta, panning across its fortress and bridge over the River Serchio, with most footage filmed in the Val d’Orcia, especially the village of Pienza. The Tuscan monastery Sant’ Anna in Camprena is a focal point, where the English patient was employed as a map maker in the 1930s. The 13th-century Bacci Chapel in the Basilica of San Francesco in Arezzo also features in a touching scene when Hana studies the frescoesof Piero della Francesca. Hannibal (2001) Director: Ridley Scott
Having successfully eluded the authorities for years, Hannibal Lecter (Anthony Hopkins), the murdering cannibal, lives peacefully in Florence, in a 15th-century building, with frescoes of muses by Ghirlandaio, on the Palazzo Capponi, masquerading as an expert in Florentine art and history. Trouble strikes when local police commissioner Rinaldo Pazzi (Giancarlo Giannini) begins to suspect Hannibal’s character and is disturbed by Lecter’s fascination with his wife, Allegra – chillingly shown in the opera scene in the cloister of Santa Croce. Learning of a large reward for anyone who assists in Lecter’s capture, Pazzi attempts to kidnap him, but he’s picked the wrong guy. Hannibal’s ensuing trail of murder displays Florence in all its gothic glory, as he commits his most gruesome crimes in Piazza della Signoria and Piazza della Repubblica, staining the Porcellino fountain in Piazza del Mercato Nuovo with his victim’s blood.
10 ways you never thought you’d experience Tuscany
Tuscany may be popular for its historic towns and cities, dreamy rural landscapes, world-class art and fine wine, but there is a quirky side to the region, too. Whether you are a returning visitor or it’s your first time in the area, these entertaining activities will give you something to write home about.
Eat dinner in a prison
Foodies in search of a truly unusual experience should book a table at one of the Galeotta dinners held at the working prison Fortezza Medicea in Volterra, near Pisa. Here, inmates learn valuable catering skills by cooking and serving dinner to paying guests, under the direction of famous visiting chefs. On arrival, diners pass through the cold steel gates of the fortress and are led to a large dungeon-like room with a vaulted ceiling. Guards keep an eye on guests as they eat reasonably priced meals – using plastic cutlery. Even the booking process is bizarre; you must apply for a criminal background check two months before your dinner date.
Learn how to make ice cream from blue cheese
The town of Castellina is an essential stop on a tour of Chianti. While it’s best known as a centre of wine production, one of its other highlights is Gelateria di Castellina (+39 0577 741337), where they make some of the best ice cream in Italy. Owners Chiara and Simone are very particular about the quality of the gelato they produce, which is available in 24 flavours. Find out about the process in more detail at one of their ice-cream classes, where more unusual samples to taste include ice cream made from blue cheese.
Meet a monster
Watch out for monsters at Bomarzo. The Park of the Monsters – Il Parco dei Mostri – near Viterbo is dominated by larger-than-life monstrous sculptures. They were commissioned by Francesco Orsini, the Duke of Bormarzo, during the 16th century, as a way of coping with his grief following the death of his wife. Subjects include a whale, winged horse, giant, dragon attacked by lions, and a turtle with a winged woman on its back. Unsurprisingly, the great surrealist artist Salvador Dali was a big fan of Orsini’s curious collection.
Bathe in wine
After a warm bath, there was nothing the ancient Greeks and Romans enjoyed more than scrubbing their bodies with pulp and grapes – the perfect way to release tension and rejuvenate the skin. Take a leaf out of their book at Castellare de’ Noveschi (+39 0577 746010) in San Sano, near Gaiole, where fragrant baths await weary bodies. Here, in a cosy cellar, a whirlpool bath for two is filled with warm water and wine, the atmosphere enhanced with scents of berry, rose, violet and orange. A very relaxing way to spend 45 minutes.
Taste bull’s penis and testicles
The stalls at Florence’s Mercato Centrale are piled high with bread, cheese, salami, fish, meat – everything you could possibly want to make an authentic Tuscan meal. But what about bull’s penis and testicles? Now that’s something to surprise them with for dinner back at the villa.
See a mountain god
Half-man, half-mountain, a sculpture of Appennino stands 35 feet tall in the grounds of the Villa Demidoff near Florence. This colossus, created in the late 1500s by the sculptor Giambologna, hides a wonderful secret – his interior includes several spaces with different functions. Inside his left hand is an underground stream, and there is a space in his head for a fireplace – light a fire and the smoke blows out of his nostrils.
Wallow in mud
Head to the village of Bagni San Filippo in southern Tuscany to play in the natural thermal waters. Follow the signs to Fosso Bianco to discover hot springs, pools and waterfalls in the wild. You can even choose your preferred temperature – the lower down the springs you go, the cooler the water. Give your skin a polish, too, by covering yourself in the mud and allowing it to dry – the perfect natural exfoliant.
Witness the Second World War
Tuscany is a peaceful place today, but in 1944 it was filled with the roar and smoke of battle. This was the site of the Gothic Line – in fact, many German and Allied bunkers and positions still remain. To remember what took place in this area, Gotica Toscana, a group of enthusiasts based in Scarperia near Florence, regularly re-enact pivotal historical events from the Second World War.
Stroll around the Tarot Garden
A sculpture garden based on the tarot cards is surely one of Tuscany’s unique sights. Il Giardino del Tarocchi in Grosseto is the work of the late French artist, Niki de Saint Phalle, who started the project in the late 1970s. Her garden, inspired by the mysteries of the tarot, is set with 22 monumental figures that can be walked through, extraordinary sculptures made from reinforced concrete covered with colourful mosaics of mirrors and ceramics.
Eat wild boar with chocolate
Think chocolate, think dessert. Not in Italy. The Italians have been adding the stuff to savoury dishes for centuries, since cacao beans first arrived from the New World. Fine dark chocolate offers a complex taste profile, a lovely toasted flavour and a silky finish to dishes featuring venison and wild boar – keep a look out for them on restaurant menus.
The Insider’s Guide to… the Uffizi
Why should the Uffizi be top of my list of museums to visit in Florence?
It has one of the best collections of Renaissance art in the world, including paintings by Michelangelo, da Vinci and Botticelli, which were collected by the hugely wealthy Medici family.
The octagonal Tribuna room is a beauty in itself.
When’s the best time of year to visit?
Autumn and winter. Winter (especially before Christmas) can be magically quiet, unlike summer, when queues are very long and the corridors full of noisy schoolkids on their first European holiday.
Medusa’s bloodcurdling scream as depicted by Caravaggio.
What are the Uffizi must-see attractions?
You’ll recognise Botticelli’s pagan masterpieces Primavera and Birth of Venus but he also did lots of Christian tableaux. Find 12 of them in Rooms 10-14 on the top floor. Piero della Francesca’s double portrait of the Duke and Duchess of Urbino (Room 8) is so delicate and Filippo Lippi’s Madonna with two cheeky angels (also Room 8) will raise a smile. In Room 35, Michelangelo’s Holy Family, recently restored, is dazzling in its use of colour. There are also Flemish paintings by Durer, Cranach and Holbein collected by the Medici family in Room 45. Most people start on Floor 2 and work down. On Floor 1, don’t miss Caravaggio’s famous face of the decapitated Medusa painted on a real shield (Room 90), Rembrandt’s self-portrait and Canaletto’s Venice (the latter two get moved about different rooms).
Be sure to look up at the exquisite ceiling paintings.
What are the secret gems to see here?
Always look up at the ceilings. They contain a lot of artwork, known as soffitti (ceiling paintings), that many people miss. Look out on the second floor for soffitti of European royalty, including our very own Henry VIII, Anna Bolena, and Maria Stuarda. There’s also a hilarious 16th-century statue of a Nereid riding on a seahorse, done by someone who clearly couldn’t get their mind around how one could create something that is half-horse half-fish. On the ground floor, Aula Magliabechiana, a room set aside for temporary exhibitions, stages some unusual insights into the work of great artists. Admission is included in your ticket, so do pop in on your way out.
Do I need a guide?
The value of a guide is that they can advise on which rooms to bypass so you get to the best stuff before everyone else. To save money, buy the very heavy catalogue in advance online and work out what you want to see – then plan your outing using the room map at the back.
Is there a cafe?
Yes, after Room 45 on the second floor. It’s worth visiting because it’s been built over the roof of the Loggia dei Lanzi, so you’ll get great views of the Palazzo della Signoria.
Best language apps for learning Italian
Studying a new language – or improving your linguistic skills – is one of the positive ways to boost wellbeing because putting your brain to work can stave off the effects of dementia, say the experts. So, when in Italy, why not speak like the Italians?
Here are four apps that can help you learn how to chat with the locals:
DuolingoDuolingo is one of the most popular language-learning methods on the market. The free app uses bite-size formats that can be easily integrated into your daily routine to teach you how to read, write, listen and speak in your chosen language. Earning points for correct answers in a race against the clock keeps up the pressure to excel.
AccelaStudy ItalianAccelaStudy is a paid-for teaching method that focuses on correct pronunciation with the help of audio by native speakers and learning a wide but relevant vocabulary using a dictionary of more than 2,000 words. Users praise the ‘spaced repetition’ feature, which remembers words that you are finding difficult and helps you commit them to memory.BabbelBabbel is free to download, you can learn the basics before you must sign up for the paid subscription. The short lessons are useful if you have a busy schedule and there are sessions that will help refresh your memory.
Tandem
Here’s a novel way to learn a language; get to know a native speaker and get chatting. Not only will you pick up a new language, you might make a new friend, too, using Tandem’s global community.
Ten quick facts about olive oil
1 Just like wine, olive oils are awarded different labels and grades depending on their taste, production methods, origin and chemistry.
2 Olive oils are classified by taste through a blind test, which is carried out by a panel of professional tasters.
3 Extra virgin olive oil, which is judged to have a superior taste, is produced without the use of any chemicals and contains no more than 0.8 per cent acidity. Virgin olive oil is also untainted with chemicals and has an acidity of less than 2 per cent.
4 Cold-pressed olive oil is superior because the olive pulp created during the production process has been pressed below 27 degrees to ensure minimum flavour is lost.
5 Olive oil is the only vegetable oil that can be consumed freshly pressed from the fruit, without the use of solvents.
6 The olive harvest needs to be timed perfectly to ensure the acidity levels are just right for oil to be graded as extra virgin.
7 Research suggests that eating around two tablespoons of virgin or extra virgin olive oil a day can regulate cholesterol and reduce the risk of coronary heart disease – it has even been linked to cancer prevention. Why? Because it is packed with antioxidants and has a high content of mono-saturated fatty acids.
8 Light, heat and air reduce the quality of olive oil, so it is best kept in a sealed, dark glass bottle and stored in a cool place.
9 Unlike wine, olive oil does not get better with age. Lower grade oils only have a shelf life of a few months and good-quality olive oil should be used within a year.
10 Some of the world’s best extra virgin olive oil comes from the Chianti region of Tuscany, where single-estate bottled oils are the most sought after and expensive on the market.
Pull on your boots for two extraordinary walks in Tuscany
A holiday in Tuscany doesn’t have to be all about lounging by the pool. Pull on your walking shoes, grab a map, sun hat, and plenty of water and try out some of these rewarding walking routes.
Via Francigena
This was once the path taken by pilgrims on their way to Rome and was later used by merchants. Today, it’s favoured more by walkers who are either setting themselves a challenge or just looking for a way to get out in the fresh air and enjoy the fantastic landscape. The Via Francigena begins in the English cathedral city of Canterbury and, on its way to Rome, passes through France and Switzerland, a journey of more than 2,000 kilometres. On its passage through Italy, the route cuts across Tuscany, so you can pick up a section as a taster to suit your walking ability. Recommended routes in the area include Carmaiore to Lucca (about 24km) and Lucca to Porcari (about 10km). Buy a map or download GPS directions at percorsiditerre.it or download the app here
Vie Cave
The Etruscans dug this curious network of roads through sheer rock, creating protective walls reaching heights of 20 metres, to which a roof of tree branches was sometimes added. Some say the Vie Cave, which link Sovana, Sorano, and Pitigliano in Grosseto, were sacred routes, others believe they were just well-defended lines of communication. Today, they provide unique places for a ramble through rare microclimates where mosses, lichens and ferns thrive – wear stout shoes, there are streams to ford. Along the way, you’ll find information points revealing more about Etruscan culture as well as the routes themselves. Download a map here to the Vie Cave.
To Tuscany has a fantastic range ofvillas with private pools, just the place to cool off after a long day trekking around the area.
Or contact our villa specialist team, who are available to assist you.
Click here to get in touch.
What to see and do in Tuscany
Tuscany’s art
Uffizi Gallery
The Uffizi Gallery is a must-see if you’re making a day trip to Florence during your stay because it’s home to one of the world’s best collections of Renaissance art. Michelangelo’s ‘Holy Family’, Botticelli’s ‘Birth of Venus’, and Canaletto’s ‘View of the Grand Canal’ are just a few of the treasures to tick off your list.
Leonardiano Museum
The Leonardiano Museum, in the master’s birthplace, Vinci, west of Florence, is no dusty parochial detailing of Leonardo da Vinci’s life. Instead, at its heart is a fascinating collection of models of the mechanisms he imagined, including a flying machine, and there’s a high-definition digital reproduction of his famous mural, ‘The Last Supper’.
The Luigi Pecci Center for Contemporary Art in Prato is welcoming visitors again. Photo: Michela Osteri/Creative Commons
Centro Pecci
The visual arts, cinema, music, architecture, design, fashion, literature, the performing arts – no branch of contemporary art is unscrutinised at Centro Pecci in Prato. The gallery – itself a saucer-shaped spectacle, designed by Italo Gamberini and extended by Maurice Nio.
Tuscany for children
Children will love the park showcasing the world-famous fairytale character Pinocchio. Photo: Jack Sullivan/Alamy
Pinocchio Park
Children can immerse themselves in one of the world’s favourite fairytales at Pinocchio Park near Pistoia. Carlo Collodi’s story about the puppet with ambitions to become a real boy is gently told in a garden set with bronze and steel sculptures of characters and settings from the book, plus there’s a small museum. A zipwire adventure in the trees adds a few thrills.
Acqua Villages
The fun is more raucous at Acqua Villages at Cecina and Follonica, two South Seas-style fantasy sites cast adrift in the Tuscan landscape. Whizz around snaking flumes and shoot down perilously steep slides for the ultimate splashdown in the cool pools below. Plus there are safe spaces for tiny tots to enjoy some watery fun, too.
Treetop family fun at Parco Avventura Il Gigante.
Parco Avventura Il Gigante
Another place to get the family’s adrenaline pumping is Parco Avventura Il Gigante near Florence. Young or old, your head for heights will be put to the test on the ziplines and Tibetan bridges that weave through the canopy of an oak forest.
Tuscany’s Gardens
‘The Planets’ is another striking installation in Daniel Spoerri’s Garden. Photo: Susanne Neumann
Daniel Spoerri’s Garden
Art meets nature in several locations across Tuscany, including at Daniel Spoerri’s Garden. It’s named after the Swiss artist who has carefully positioned his collection of 113 installations by 55 artists here in a wild mountainous spot near Seggiano. Look out for the two works by the renowned Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely, famed for his kinetic art.
Tarot Garden
The eye-popping Tarot Garden near Garavicchio is the legacy of the late French-American sculptor, painter and filmmaker Niki de Saint Phalle. Here, she constructed more than 20 monumental figures about the symbols of the Tarot, assisted by her second husband, the sculptor Jean Tinguely (see above). If you’ve been to Parc Guell in Barcelona, you’ll immediately recognise the influence of the Catalan artist Antoni Gaudi in the giant mosaic-clad sculptures.
The Pratolino Medici Park is home to some monumental statues, including the 10.7-metre-high ‘Colosso del Appennino’. Photo: Luca Lorenzelli/Shutterstock
Pratolino Medici Park
More monumental works of art can be seen at the Pratolino Medici Park near Vaglia, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Famed for its Renaissance grottos, fountains and statues, you can’t miss the park’s 10.7-metre-high Appennine Colossus, gazing into the waters of a small lake. These massive marvels were adornments for a villa that once stood here, designed by Buontalenti for the powerful Medici family in the late 16th century.
Tuscany
Tuscany’s Wines
The Antinori winery in Chianti Classico is an organic sculpture that blends into the surrounding landscape. Photo: Ivan Franco Bottoni/Unsplash
One of Tuscany’s greatest attractions, of course, is its delicious wines. Many of the local vineyards are opening for tastings, not only of the red and white wines they produce, but also Vinsanto, Grappa and extra virgin olive oil. Among their number is Casanuova di Ama, near Gaiole, a family-run farm in the prime vineyards of Chianti Classico. At Castello Nipozzano near Pelago, a medieval castle provides the backdrop to the winery in Chianti Rufina territory, with cellars and a house to tour, as well as tastings.
Col d’Orcia, an organic producer overlooking the Orcia river near Montalcino, is in Brunello country and offers tours of the farm that provide an insight into its biodynamic approach. Meanwhile, cutting-edge architecture meets venerable winemaking at Antinori nel Chianti Classico, south of Florence. The Antinori family has been making wine in Tuscany since the Middle Ages, but the sculptural winery by architect Marco Casamonti, with its glass tasting room suspended above the cellar, is thoroughly 21st century.
15 Ways To Focus On Your Wellbeing This Holiday
Holidays are all about relaxing and escaping the daily grind – just what is needed to recharge our batteries. In reality, the sudden lack of routine means we often end up over-indulging and return home more exhausted than when we left.
So, To Tuscany has teamed up with meta-wellbeing expert, Susan Gardner, to offer tips on how to use a holiday as an opportunity to press pause on daily life and restore our equilibrium. Susan believes that stepping out of your familiar routine provides a refreshing and powerful way to interrupt daily habits. Holidays can bring a welcome new perspective, providing a different focus for your attention.
Here are 15 ways in which you can take advantage of the time you have to listen to your body and mind.
1 Every morning ,when you wake up, allow yourself 10-15 minutes of quiet contemplation, focusing your thoughts on gratitude for everything that is good in your life.
2 Regularly do a quick body scan, identifying areas of tension and concentrating on letting your muscles soften and relax.
3 Give your skin a gentle dry brush before washing and follow a hot shower with a blast of cold water.
4 Regularly sip water, preferably filtered.
5 Drink hot water with lemon 20 minutes before eating.
6 Eat protein for breakfast.
7 Ensure you fill your plate with a rainbow of coloured food.
8 Try to eat alkaline foods such as cooked tomato, fish, broccoli, spinach, mango and papaya.
9 When you have a moment, write or draw the negative thoughts that are in your head onto paper. Then destroy the paper.
10 Notice and understand your feelings, breathing in calm and breathing out tension.
11 Try to interrupt negative thoughts and focus on what you do want.
12 Be present and alert to the moment.
13 Consider your personal space and adjust it for pleasure and comfort – seeking solitude and stillness if needed.
14 Aim for a minimum of two hours of exercise a day – cardiovascular and gentle.
15 Visualise a dial that you can turn down to lower stress levels.
Multigeneration holidays – the villa break where nobody is left behind
Mum, dad, grandma, grandad – and don’t forget the kids… multigeneration holidays are all the rage. At To Tuscany, we’ve noticed more and more of you booking these convivial get-togethers during the past five years. In fact, we’re boosting our offering of villas with five bedrooms or more to meet demand.
The fact that more of us are holidaying together as extended families seems to be largely down to the generosity of grandparents, who are putting their hard-earned cash to good use creating memory-making experiences for the whole brood. Don’t just take it from us: a recent passenger survey by Virgin Holidays revealed that seven out of 10 families who travelled with the tour operator chose to take a multigeneration holiday. It seems we just love spending quality time together.
A stress-free, unhurried environment is what’s needed for happy co-existence of family who normally live in different homes, towns, cities, even parts of the world. Choice of space is crucial, with large terraces for communal dining and quieter corners for a bit of me time, as well as the comfort of facilities such as en-suite bathrooms. We asked Sean Caulfield, owner of To Tuscany, to give his top tips for planning a multigeneration trip.
Sentimental journey: create special memories on a villa break with the whole family. Photo: Shutterstock
Configuration is crucial
Don’t choose a property just for its size – give serious consideration to its internal arrangement. No matter how well they get along, big groups need space and independence. Look out for large villas divided into apartments, which can be opened up to interconnect, ensuring everyone gets some privacy. Grandparents, especially, might even appreciate their own annexe. At the very least, ensure there is a suitable mix of en-suite bedrooms and extra bathrooms.
Pools, gardens and on-site facilities
For most mixed-age groups private pools are essential and a pleasant diversion for everyone, a place to relax together. Many larger properties benefit from their own pools, fenced to keep small children safe. Large gardens are also a bonus, with different areas to enjoy a spot of tranquillity. Some villas have playgrounds, ping-pong tables or even tennis courts on site, while others have saunas and gyms for wellness.
Table for… 12, or 20
Although large groups enjoy holidaying together, different generations will often split up during the day to do their own thing. But they generally want to come together for the evening meal. A property with a large terrace and excellent views can be a place to relax, from aperitivo time until after midnight. A barbecue or outdoor pizza oven is also a bonus for fun al-fresco meals. Plus, for special occasions, guests can book a recommended private chef to cook up a treat.
Location, location
Think about the make-up of your party and choose a base with a spread of attractions to meet the needs of young and old alike. Being within walking distance to a local village or town is handy for elderly people and small children. While a villa near a train station can give teenagers a bit of independence and the opportunity to visit a larger town, or offer a taste of cultural treasures for adults. Plus if the beach vibe is important to your group, choose a property with easy access to the coast.
Extra services and activities
Depending on budget, your group might want to book extra services – a regular housemaid or chef is very common, helping to avoid stress around cleaning and cooking. Most of our villas have local activities to choose from. We can recommend more gentle pastimes, from vineyard wine-tasting sessions to cookery lessons, as well as more active pursuits such as horse-riding and hiking.
Fancy a round of golf? Tuscany has some of the best courses in Italy
We asked To Tuscany’s golf expert, Grant Leggate, General Manager of Chestfield Golf Club and former Assistant Secretary at Royal St George’s Golf Club, to pick his favourite golf courses in the region.
Royal Golf La Bagnaia
Just south of Siena, Royal Golf La Bagnaiawas designed by the architect Robert Trent Jones Jr, who transformed 130 hectares of land into a masterpiece of course design. He has injected American style into the raw Tuscan landscape, capturing the passion, flair and artistry of the region. Golfers must plot their way around this course, between and over the well-positioned sand traps, which provide its main protection. There are few trees, but this is not a criticism because if the wind blows they will provide a further layer of armour, as will the water hazards on no fewer than 13 of the holes. The stylish clubhouse is well run by an impressive team who show real pride and enthusiasm.
Golf Ugolino, above, is the oldest course in Tuscany
Golf Ugolino
The oldest course in Tuscany, Golf Ugolino was created in 1934. It offers stunning views around every corner and plenty of challenges, too, with narrow fairways, tricky greens and some holes blending into the landscape. Skill and accuracy are vital, but this is still a fun course for all abilities, especially on the front nine, where the 295-metre, par-4 3rd hole demands a good drive to the left on the difficult approach to the green. Even if you're fit enough to enjoy the walk, hiring a buggy is recommended to reduce the time between green and tee and to admire the views as you go. The clubhouse staff are an absolute joy – helpful, attentive and informative.
Golf Punta AlaGolf Punta Ala has an 18-hole, par-72 course, training field, pro shop, cart hire, trolleys and a bar and restaurant. But the most remarkable aspect of this golf course is its setting on the shores of the Med, overlooking the island of Elba, where Napoleon was imprisoned in the early 1800s – this is arguably the most beautiful course in Tuscany. So, no need to feel bad about enjoying a round of golf on these links because the rest of the family will be making the most of their time having fun on the beach. The course has tight tree-lined fairways, making position play important, and it’s advisable to hire a trolley because this hilly course could prove challenging to walk around.
Golf Montecatini Terme
Another natural beauty of a golf course can be found deep in the Tuscan countryside, south-west of Florence. The testing 18-hole course at Golf Montecatini Terme is hilly yet has fairways that are quite wide and not too long. Lakes, streams, trees and ditches combine to provide natural contours to this quite exposed landscape where the wind provides another obstacle. The greens are fast and undulating – an added problem to several blind drives – but if you want your skills to be tested this is a tough examination paper. The par-3 18th hole, played over a 150-metre-wide lake, is both stunning and daunting. There’s a neat and compact clubhouse with adequate facilities and the atmosphere of a family-run business with friendly staff. Club selection is critical.
Large greens and wide fairways await at Le Pavoniere
Le Pavoniere Golf & Country Club
This 18-hole, par-72 course near Florence was designed by Arnold Palmer's company. Hence, Le Pavoniere Golf & Country Club has a typically American feel, with large greens, vast bunkers and wide fairways. What it perhaps lacks in aesthetics, it makes up for in playability – the relatively flat course has several water hazards that need sensible course management. Most of the holes are tree-lined but well-spaced and it rewards bigger hitters, particularly when playing into a head wind, with greens that are quick but fair. As well as the 18th, the best holes are the 6th and the 5th – a par-3 where confidence is needed off the tee. There’s plenty of risk and reward golf at Le Pavoniere, providing a good test for all levels of golfer. The clubhouse is set in a 19th-century villa, which has been carefully restored to provide a light, bright and cool place to relax after a game.
Poggio dei Medici Golf and Resort
This 18-hole, par-73 course near Florence is the perfect course; from its lush and immaculate fairways to its well-paced greens and hilly surroundings. The literal translation of the course's name is “Hill of the Medici” and high on 16th hole, with nothing but the sound of birds and Florentine church bells, you can’t help but feel that if The Almighty played golf, he'd choose here to pay his green fees. Poggio dei Medici Golf & Resort also provides a good test of skill with some difficult holes. The 18th is as wonderful a finishing hole you can get in golf, but the 15th hole is my favourite. At 332 metres, it's both challenging and stimulating, with a split green that allows the hole to be set up in two very different ways – not the most difficult but demanding a well-placed drive and an accurate approach. Indeed, all holes are great to play and they might take a little longer than anticipated to complete, such is the need to allow time to soak up the views and atmosphere. With its fantastic 16th-century clubhouse, this remains one of my favourite clubs in the world.
Poggio dei Medici provides a good test of skill. Photo: Andrea Getuli
Cosmopolitan Golf and Country Club
Water is a major feature of the course at Cosmopolitan Golf and Country Club, near Pisa, where there are lots of risk and reward decisions to be made. Its undulations respect the original shape of the land, with four sets of tees on each hole enabling the staff to set up various options and provide a fair test for all abilities. Each of the 18 holes is well-defined with good-sized greens and fairways that are generally level. The greens are slow but true and not too much lip on the numerous bunkers makes escape undemanding. The 5th is the stand-out hole, requiring shots to be played over water twice before you reach the green. However, the defining shot of the round is the approach to the 9th green, again over water, making club selection crucial. This is a pretty course with good facilities, well-maintained and very playable, but it will be a tricky test when the wind gets up. Other clubs worth seeking out include Casentino Golf Club near Arezzo, Circolo Golf L’Abbadia near Colle Val d’Elsa, Antognolla Golf Club near Perugia, and Golf Club Valdichiana near Siena.
The best family villas in Tuscany
Discover our exceptional selection of family villas in Tuscany, perfect for an unforgettable holiday altogether. With modern conveniences and authentic Tuscan charm, our family villas provide the ideal setting for creating lasting memories. Whether you are looking for the perfect place to stay with the kids or eager to bring every generation together for a celebration, we have the perfect villa for you. Our villas offer plenty of space for the whole family to enjoy, featuring spacious gardens for children, private terraces for alfresco dining, and large pools for everyone to relax in the sun.
Not only does Tuscany make an ideal base for your family holiday, but across the region, you will find plenty to see and do for all the family. From adventure parks to water parks, museums to nature spots, cooking classes to beach days on the coast, there is something for everyone to enjoy. Explore all the best things to see and do in our family activities guide, and start planning your Tuscan family holiday today. Or discover the best local towns and villages across Tuscany and find the perfect day trips away from the villa.
The best yoga studios in Tuscany
Imagine placing your yoga mat next to an old olive tree or at the top of a hill overlooking a vineyard. With such beauty in your midst, and the slow pace of life here, Tuscany provides the perfect conditions to relax body and mind using the power of yoga.
Centro Yoga Grosseto di Ilaria Serini
Centro Yoga runs 90-minute sessions at its base in Grosseto that are suitable for all abilities. The helpful and attentive teachers at this yoga school keep the atmosphere relaxed and friendly.
Cintamani Yoga
Cintamani Yoga offers classes in the heart of the Chianti hills. This studio’s mission is to ‘leave you with a new-won spirit of internal bliss, tranquility and more determination to conquer the objectives in your life’. Choose from private sessions or group classes.
Yoga Garage
Florence-based Yoga Garage holds classes just a few steps from the Duomo, San Lorenzo and Santa Croce. Sessions are offered in both English and Italian and they provide everything so all you have to do is show up.
Studio Yoga Maya
You’ll find Studio Yoga Maya just minutes from the Boboli gardens in Florence. The 75-minute sessions run here aim to provide a cosy , silent and elegant ambience where you can ‘unplug the spine and realign it towards a new centre’.
Centro Yoga Nisargadatta Ashram
Centro Yoga Nisargadatta Ashram in Pisa holds hour-long classes for different levels of ability, including pre-natal sessions. Courses for teachers are also on the timetable.
Wildlife & Nature
Where can I find Tuscany’s most beautiful gardens? What will I see in Tuscany’s natural parks? Is there a path where I can wander through this glorious countryside? Which animals should I look out for in the local fields and woods? Questions, questions – and we’ve got the answers. Read on to discover the wonders of Tuscany’s landscape, from formal gardens to wild terrain shaped by nature. We’ll show you where to join one of Europe’s famous long-distance walking routes, the Via Francigena. And we’ll tell you why you should keep an eye out for a porcupine. Plus, we'll point the way to the best viewpoints, amazing thermal spas, cleanest beaches in the world and more.
Read moreGet pedalling, there’s an ice-cream waiting at the top of the hill
As the steep gradient starts to bite, I raise out of the saddle to try to maintain my speed. But the back wheel of my bicycle spins and I lose traction, so I sit back down and try to power on. It’s my first morning in Tuscany and I have forgotten the most basic rule of riding the Strade Bianchi, the gravel-topped white roads that criss-cross this legendary cycling region.
It’s an understandable lapse in concentration as my eyes are constantly drawn to the vineyards cascading off the ridge I’m cycling along. This is Chianti country and I’m regretting last night’s bottle as my legs sting with the effort. I drop down off the ridge, seeking smooth Tarmac and ride into Gaiole in Chianti.
I’m here to meet Sean, the owner of To Tuscany, the villa company I’m staying with. He’s a keen cyclist and, accompanied by his friend, Brett, we’re going for a spin on the rolling, local roads. Our target today is Castellina in Chianti, where I’ve been promised the best gelato in Tuscany.
We leave Gaiole in the crisp, spring air and soon enough start climbing at a steady pace. The smooth road twists and turns upward as we ride past undulating fields and bare-branched woods just a few weeks away from an explosion of seasonal colour. We crest the hill and our private race begins as Sean and Brett descend like demons, making the best of their fitness and local knowledge.
Folks know their cycling around here. The local heroes are a who’s-who of professional road cycling – Bartali, Bettini, and Cipollini. There are several current professionals based in the area. Increasingly, though, it’s L’Eroica, the vintage cycling event, that is gaining Tuscany international headlines, celebrating an era steel frames, woollen jerseys and the Strade Bianchi. Gaiole is its spiritual home – there’s even a store here full of memorabilia and re-imagined vintage gear by De Marchi.
The road to Castellina is a sinuous 7km climb. Sean pushes on ahead, while Brett and I settle into our own steady rhythm. Through the gaps in the trees I glimpse more vineyards on the plain below, stretching north and westward until, thankfully, we finally reach Sean at the top for a full-on view and that gelato.
A carload of American tourists pulls over and we chat about the glorious scenery. Selfies taken, they are back in the car, no doubt with a schedule to keep to. I don’t envy them: two wheels is quite simply the best way to connect with this beautiful landscape. And the ice-cream? Worth every metre of the climb.
Campbell Reid, a keen road cyclist, visited Tuscany for a family holiday.
Tuscan Recipes
Eat like a Tuscan with a little help from our hand-picked recipes. We’ve chosen some of our team’s favourite dishes from the region so that you can recreate Tuscan flavours in the kitchen of your holiday villa – and even when you get back home. Slowly does it with the traditional ragu if you’re to achieve an authentic satisfyingly rich sauce of local boar and luscious Chianti to dress some fresh pasta. Pick up some salt cod from the market and let us show you just how to cook it with tomatoes and olives, the way they do in Livorno on the coast. And try Panzanella, Tuscan bread salad – yes, the bread’s the star, with a little help from fresh vegetables, basil and olive oil. Whether you’re a meat eater, pescatarian, veggie or vegan, there’s something for everyone to enjoy in our collection of Tuscan recipes.
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